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You guys got it right, I put my stock bendix back in and it cranks over just fine. the ski's all back together and running great so far. I actually just finished loading it up for a test run tomorrow. When I pulled the cheap bendix out and checked it, it didn't spin quite as freely as the oem...

Alright, I just spent all night wrestling the starter out without pulling the motor. The b-pipe sure makes it fun. First thing I noticed was that there was paint(as I suspected) covering every mounting surface of the starter. After filing the paint off, I completely disassembled the entire...

Wow, that is a nice piece of work up there. I suppose I could weld one up out of steel to lower the risk of amputation. As long as I've got both thumbs and a few fingers, I'm good. I suppose I'm going to peel the starter out and see what I can find. Anyone know what rpm the motor should spin...

Oh, don't worry, I was doing the jackass maneuver by holding the shaft of the bendix tight against the flywheel with my bare hand. A few minutes ago I put the cover back on, swapped in a another brand new out of the box Odyssey battery (12.75v). Same thing happens. I then went and grabbed the...

Alright, I just realized I don't have my flywheel puller to change the bendix, so I did a little more troubleshooting. If I leave the fw cover off, manually extend the bendix into the flywheel so it's meshed in real good, when I crank the motor over... it makes about a complete revolution and...

My buddy has one in his Raider as well and it works fine. Mine spins freely and extends out smoothly in the opposite direction. I was thinking more along the lines of having a problem with the starter staying engaged to the bendix. Are the 6m6 and 62t starters identical? I only have one...

The spring is in, and yes it is one of brass monkey's. I suppose I should pull the older oem bendix back out of my X2 and try that huh?

OK, I just finished building the motor for my square project. After getting it back in the ski and wired up, I figured I would turn it over to check things out. Everything works and sounds good. (no plugs installed yet) Then I grab the gauge to check compression to see where I'm at. About...

Thanks for the offer keefer, but I have already cut the CDI open and soldered in a jumper wire via a toggle switch, so that I can turn the rev/limit on and off if needed.

Are the same solder points jumpered on a 6m6 cdi as compared to the 62t cdi pictured,to eliminate the rev limiter?

Make sure you don't have an exhaust leak. My buddys 750sx did the same thing when his manifold bolts loosened and blew the gasket.

Hey, groaty... thanks for the ideas, but if you're running a mikuni, I'm sure the settings will be entirely different. I'm getting ready to tear my Keihin apart to see what I'm even starting with.

Alright, I am finally trying to get my x2 dialed in. It is an 88 with a stock bore 650. I am running a westcoast head(170psi), exhaust, and waterbox. I've upgraded to a 42mm CDK II w/stock f/a and am looking for advice as to what jets, n/s, and pop-off I should use to get me started...

Does anyone see a problem with eliminating the rev-limiter, but also place a toggle switch inline with the jumper wire? I figured this will allow a limited worry free break in period and save your motor if you let a rookie ride it...

Damn, hope your shoulder heals up so you can get back out before it starts getting cold up there again. I'm in central IL. and its premium riding weather right now!

Looks awesome! I hope mine turns out half as nice. Did you use anything to seal the edges on the rails? And just out of curiosity, what's with the raised square between the foot holds?

What about modifying the steering nipple to be on the bottom of the plate, or use a taller set of bar clamps(mx perhaps) that would raise the bars up to be higher than the pivot bolt/ steering nipple? The chin pad may need to be modified, but you could get the bars down in front of the pivot...