I buy them all the time. Idk which ones went the wrong direction so it’s a bit of a krap shoot. Most recently I bought one for a CBR1100 and it spins the correct direction. I don’t think it’s so much a 4 stroke vs 2 stroke thing. Probably more about what side of the motor the starter is on but...
I did some research on this a while back. iIRC it’s based on the fixed magnets in the case so can’t be switched easily. You can use the guts and put in a different case though.
Good stuff! If you are bored, go check out this thread https://www.x-h2o.com/threads/need-your-input-on-new-ignition-brain-design.206966/page-5#post-2133349 - I'm working on a speeduino based ECU for ignition only control. Not CDI, but uses "smart" coils that output CDI like spark energy and...
and this is why the forum is dead (posts like this). Guy is trying something different. cut him some slack and maybe give some advice. I agree, using something stock is way smarter but its a learning experience none the less.
Ok, so assuming your marks are correct and your light isn’t set for any advance and your TDC mark was accurate, your pickup would need to move 17 degrees. Should move so it’s triggered 17 degrees later. This tells me your ignition expects a static angle of 64. Did I math that correctly? I think...
What ignition is it? Is it pre-configured for a specific static pickup angle? If so, you need to know that and need to set your pickup at that angle. This all sounds like way more hassle than its worth IMHO.
No you should get 20 after 3k rpm based on that curve. The static angle tells the ignition where the pickup is relative to TDC. Make a pointer at the coupler or flywheel and mark when piston is at TDC. Calculate distance for 5 degrees of rotation and mark flywheel or coupler every 5cDegrees. Run...
Why don’t you hook a timing light up and check? That’s the only way you’ll know. Also, that curve kinda sucks. You probably want more timing down low then taper off after 5k ish to build heat in the pipe.
The 14 is plenty. I have 3 skis all with the 14. Two have been running all season total loss. One is charging zeel. All going great and don’t require any additional sealing like an AG
I have a place in KDH and will be down riding flat water at the public boat ramp the week of the 27th. Happy to ride with others if anyone is around. I can bring a surf ski but I don’t think there’s an inlet near by.
Update: drilled holes for versiplugs. Foam is soaked and been draining for two days. Definitely the annoying type of foam and I’ll have to cut the tray open over the winter and remove that crap. More annoying rickter poor quality nonsense.
Good info thanks! Honestly I feel like trying to seal it is a losing battle. Maybe I’ll add a scupper in the pump tunnel like my XFS. Prob not smart for surf I guess
When it sits in the shop on a cart with an angle towards the front, the engine compartment will fill with some water in a day or two from one of the seals at a water line so I know there’s water there. I’ll add a drain. Hopefully they used closed cell foam.
Just built an XFR as a surf/rec ski. I believe the trays are foamed and I’m confident mine is getting water in the tray. Trying to seal it will be a losing battle. Anyone know what type of foam they use and wether or not it will drain if I add a drain? TIA
-Jordan
Idk if this is any help… is the edge engine compartment similar to an Xfs or XfR? In the Xfs and XfR, the powerfactor pope sits very high with the PF box. It almost hits the top deck. If the edge is similar it will be tight. I think TNT pipes are pretty big IIRC
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