Running issue- I need help.
- Thread starter truth609
- Start date
- Location
- Ontario, Canada
If you have a stator to try then for sure give it a shot. If it's going into a SuperJet then you shouldn't need to remove the engine, just the fuel tank and pop off the cover and flywheel. If it is going into the Blaster you have in your avatar there, then the waterbox is all that you need to remove along with again the cover and flywheel. It's a fair size job to pull the engine unless you have other areas you figure needs inspection too. Glad the coil made for some improvements though, they can drive a lad batty when they start to act up.
Its in a krash reaper. I've had the motor out of this so many times, its second nature now ha ha. I might work on it in the hull. I have a friend that runs a business parting out skis, so i have local access to and friend pricing on used parts. I can't think of what else it would be, other than the stator? I just remembered that when i got the flywheel lightened, there were metal shavings stuck between the magnets and flywheel. Could that be causing the issue?
- Location
- Ontario, Canada
Yes absolutely, the steel chips depending on where they are located on the magnets will extend the magnetic field beyond where it should be causing a slight change in timing.
Thank you!!! I will pull the flywheel today. Any tips on getting those shavings out? I tried prior to installing it, but they were wedged in between the magnet and flywheel and i couldn't remove them.
- Location
- Ontario, Canada
The best I can say is a precision pick like what dentists use. They are pretty easy to find in a set nowadays though. Harbor Freight for the U.S guys should have them, Princess Auto for us Canadian boys. Make sure there are no chips around the stator coils too. I have had to clean out the laminated core surfaces on other small engines with a coil that mounts close the flywheel, the steel filings build up and bridge the gap almost completely between coil and flywheel causing no run conditions entirely. Lawnmowers are famous for this.
- Location
- Ontario, Canada
It sounds like the flavor of the month this month. I just read about one that died too and they tested the resistance of the one coil cold sitting on the stator, then heated it up to about 150 I think it was in the oven and re-tested...it failed. At this point I think you are on the right track and testing with a different stator is a good idea, worst case...it is the stator. Best case, it is not and all you need to do is track down the issue. It's unfortunate you need to go through another engine removal lol...but your plan is based on good logic which makes for a good tech. Keep us informed.
You may have other issues but you jetting is too small/lean. 61x bpipe with no other mods should be 120/95g/145main. You have a head and other mods too so that would be minimum sizes.
Understand that, but running the stock 61x main jet which is 4 sizes too small is a recipe for an engine meltdown.
Fro Diesel
creative control
- Location
- Kzoo
I run my single carb 61x/61 at 165main and 142.5 low it has 185 psi and bpipe. You are not yet out of options. You are possibly looking in the wrong spot.
I have domes that are pitted to hell that rip hard. Its not that, imho. Its starving for fuel.
I gotta pull up the mikuni flow chart graph that shows what part of the carb is activated at what angle of throttle. Its kinda like this:
I dont believe there is enough fuel in the entire circuit. What is the popoff of the carb? Are you using a 1.5needle seat or a 2.0 or 2.3? You have to use a 2.0 or bigger and have a popoff of 25psi or lower for a single carb, again that just my option, but if you dont believe me research the csrb database. You are too lean my friend.
Heres how to square up the popoff once you buy a popoff tester (jetmaniac sells them):
I had a worn throttle linkage that caused this in daytona similar symptoms year. If its leaking around the throttle valve it will never run away or diesel, it WILL require fatter jetting, however.
Please keep posting results
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Fro Diesel
creative control
- Location
- Kzoo
But what needle seat you running? 135 is wayyyy too small unless you are at 2.3 n/s.
Please tell us the popoff pressure of your carb. Even if you drop total loss electronics at the rig it will not make more power without more fuel.
If you want it to hit harder, more power, where do you expect the energy to come from? Magic tuning science? Thin air? NO it needs more fuel to make more power. And run 45:1 you are just wasting the oil if you are not breaking a motor in. Again just an opinion.
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Guys, i am not running a 135 hi, i installed that to see if it changed the issue. I'm running a 142.5 hi, 2.0 needle, 120 lo. That may not be the perfect settings, but it's not far enough away to make it run the way it is. If i turn the fuel screws out past 1 turn, the symptoms worsen. This running condition has been present since my first ride with this motor. I bought it out of a 94 vxr and installed it in my reaper.
I installed what was recommended, i didn't check pop off. I don't have a gauge, so i can't answer that question. This isn't an " its not quite dialed" condition, this is a feels like its missing and is un rideable feeling. Ive tuned a bunch, i have fun doing it, this is a running issue. Something is malfunctioning and has eluded me so far.
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I forgot to post here Incase the solution helped someone else, it was the coil. I was using used coils and had 3 bad coils, so although i was "replacing" them, they were faulty. I ended up buying one from cory at jetski solutions. Beautiful work and quick shipping, I've since replaced the 61x with a JM 735 in the reaper. Thanks for all the advice gentlemen!