- Location
- Fayetteville, Ga
Does anyone have a good way to get a corroded bilge outlet out? Ive tried everything i can think of to get it out. All ideas are welcome
Corroded bilge outlet
- Thread starter tumblingtwerp9
- Start date
- Location
- Raleigh NC\Lake Jordan
im in the same boat as you. ive tried pb blaster+heat and a vice on the nut and a vice on the outlet its self and its still not coming off.
The only thing i can think of is to dremel it off, but depending on where you put it, it might be hard to do. I cant really get to mine im really thinking of cutting around the fiberglass and just filling the hole.
Last edited:
- Location
- So. IL
Will that corrosion come off with that CLR calcium lime and rust remover? I just thought about that. Might give it a shot. I would just cut the nut off with a dremmel and then glue the outlet back in with some silicone if you want to reuse it. A tiny bit of silicone will hold it forever. Unless you push the hose back on too hard then it comes loose
- Location
- Ontario, Canada
Can you show a pic? Might help spark some ideas.
- Location
- Fayetteville, Ga
- Location
- Ontario, Canada
Yeah, I think everyone is right on this one. Cut it out of there, it's not what I thought it would look like so that killed any of my ideas lol.
- Location
- Fayetteville, Ga
Ya it looks fine on the outside but the inside is all corroded and wont budge.
- Location
- Ontario, Canada
Is it stainless? It looks like it is, either that or polished aluminum. I just can't see stainless doing that unless it was made out of something like 440 stainless. Aluminum yes, it gets that white powder all over it and in time gets eaten away by it.
- Location
- Fayetteville, Ga
I have no idea I bought it off Ratti and im repainting the ski and need it to come off somehow
- Location
- Ontario, Canada
If its 440 stainless, a magnet will stick to it. If the magnet doesn't stick then its most likely aluminum. The good stainless (304, 306, 316) won't corrode or rust but also won't let a magnet stick to it. I have stainless gear clamps holding the fill tubes in place on my truck's gas tank and the only part that rotted away was the cheap mild steel gear portion lol. If that thing is aluminum you should have no problems marking it up with a drill bit or something. If that's the case it will cut off real easy as long as you can get a dremel or something in there to cut it.
- Location
- Fayetteville, Ga
alright ill keep that in mind. Im praying that its aluminum cause cutting steel sucks big time.
- Location
- Ontario, Canada
Yes sir, stainless sucks when you can't get at it to remove it. To see if it's aluminum, you could also use a dremel with a sanding drum on it and see how hard it is to sand into it, aluminum will sand down pretty quick with an aggressive grit count....I mean like 5-10 seconds should show a substantial loss of material. Stainless would take probably 20-30 seconds to make it look oogly. I'm out for the night, hope its aluminum, have fun with it :bigok:
Shifty
- SuperJet Thursday -
- Location
- Austin Texas - Lake LBJ
I agree, CLR or LimeAway and let it soak and penetrate the threads. Another idea if the threaded portion is thin enough, you could maybe crush it enough to wiggle the nut off?
- Location
- Cleveland Ohio
Why not just leave it in?
kawishaul
I bleed GREEN!
- Location
- lake City, FL
x2
7
750sux
Guest
because he wants to paint the ski....
- Location
- Fayetteville, Ga
I was planning on sending them to my uncle to get them powdercoated while I paint the ski.
kawishaul
I bleed GREEN!
- Location
- lake City, FL
Sounds like a good reason. Powder coating would be nice.
- Location
- Hutchinson, Kansas
small dremel cutoff wheel on the backside nut. try to cut enough that when you put a socket on it it breaks.