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I used to have a guy that bored cylinders with a hone, on your more expensive hones like Sunnen and Ammco they make stones specifically for doing this, I watched him do a set while I waited, it took him maybe 30 minutes per cylinder.

Buy the equipment, that's the only option here

These are pretty much my thoughts, I have dozens of cylinders around here I can screw up with no issues, The guy that bores my cylinders had an accident and is in a wheelchair , he is going to let me work with him some on getting some of my cylinders bored so hopefully it is another skill I can...

screw all that what kind of oil and which handlebars and grips ?i

CVolorrite is damned expensive, my recommendation is find a Nason dealer and take them the part you want to repaint so they can scan it with their electric eye paint matching tool, what that tool does is search their database for a color close to yours then adjust it to match, it usually matches...

Sorry he confused me with the bore size in inches, I am used to dealing in mm, but yes I can see running .006-.007 with a 92.5 mm bore.

That shop is amazing, you should be really proud of that. I have all kinds of lifts here, I have a gantry that I had someone build much cheaper that you could buy one for , I also ran across a portable lift with a Harbor freight winch at a local flea market for $75.00, I added some old solid...

Personally I would not run Wisecos at .0045 clearance more like .0055 or .0060 , they expand a lot , cast pistons would run at .0004 all day long, here is my take there are specs that will work and specs that will work well, the difference is .0001 or .0002 , back when I first started building...

I had to remove the tailgate when I put the work shell on the truck, I was looking at it yesterday , if I just made some new legs for it that would just slide in then 90 degrees to the ground, that would take the load and I could pick up whatever I want as it would have three points of...

I would hone it with a sunnen or ammco hone and try to true it up a bit and run it

I use my cherry picker a lot but it's a PITA to move around, I saw this online the other day and I made it happen, I had already replaced most of the bolts with quick pins for easy disassembly , now I just hook it up to the truck and go, also if it's not too heavy I can just back the truck up...

What kind of pistons are in it, it matters because you might get away with that clearance on forged pistons but for cast pistons you are way out of whack.

There is never time or money to do it right but there is always time and money to do it over.

A dingleberry hone or as you call it ball flex hone will only mask issues instead of correct them, if you run a light pass through the cylinder with a parallel jaw hone you can usually see the high and low spots, it is still best to check the bore with a bore gauge in both X and Y axis to see...

Honestly it doesn't look like there is enough room to cut it and make it fit, I could be wrong but to check it I would take a piece of coathanger wire and bend it to follow the inner curve of the pipe, cut it to the length that corresponds with where you want to cut the pipe at , then place...

Most likely it will tune in just fine

No one can really say one way or the other, we have no idea what kind of deal Rick made with them so lots of assumptions going on in this thread , the only ones that really know are Rick and VK Composites and I doubt we will hear from either one of them.

Damn I just thought I wanted to get into the upholstery business, WTH

Yeah i will do it for that, I have all the internal parts and would fully rebuild them anyway, send me your paypal info.

I may be interested, can you check and make sure all the screws holding the front plate and pump assy together will break loose ?