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I prefer screw+remove myself, but for sure 1/8 is too short. The rivet needs to go through both parts plus at least 1/8 past. Diameter-wise small is good, they only need to hold it in place till the epoxy cures. Foam behind where the rivet goes isn't a problem.

ALT.sport.jetski ! That goes back to the days when you needed to be an engineering school geek just to know what email was..

On the cheap and simple I epoxied aluminum strips across each section then glassed over the whole mess. Looks like crap but that crack isn't going anywhere.

Mines that way -- not a big deal but adding a bumper of some sort to prevent something from breaking should you come down hard on the pole would be a good idea.

blowsion makes one for the fx1 latch. Same bracket as a RN with the little fx1 hook screwed on.

in case its not obvious the shoe needs to seal to the hull. The OEM glue was crap. If in doubt pull it off clean it up and re-seal. (I used 5200). That is assuming the damage insn't something that prevents a seal either to hull or to pump.

if its soft I'd think the re-foam might push it out (i.e. too far)

Does the internal fuel fill tube work ok for you?

nice. I avoid having to trim anything wet, but never worked with pigmented stuff where its obviously important to have a real clean fit.

yup you want all the resin to cure together regardless of the cloth type. sanford: do you accurately fit that carbon cloth dry or are you trimming the edges as you lay it? btw: I think if you wanted a metal bracket all the way down the sides you would need to bolt it at the bottom somehow or...

In general I'd rather do multiple light layers. Easier to fit to contours plus I think less tendency to over-fill the resin. I might even do a half dozen layers of straight cloth. That said the 1708 has a layer of chopped strand, the point of which is to give a smoother surface finish - If you...

There have been several done like that with the pole lowered into the hood. Looks good. Lots of work. I've also seen one where they built up the nose to cover around the stock pole bracket - less impressed with that approach.

just be sure to glass over them. Besides corrosion, you don't want a little leak hole into your foam.

I take it then you could swap over the cast piece and be good to go with the fx1 steering cable (?).

I'm no expert at all, but using a primer that can be thinned with water on a boat doesn't sound too good.

I'll take the 60mph one!!!

what glass you using? You want light stuff for complex shapes..

sorry, there is no question about it being illegal. Seems silly to pay any $ for pirated software. In any case I don't think any PC based CFD software will solve this problem. Given a couple of years learning time and super computer access maybe..but I wouldn't even bet on that.

I never did see them, but that was one of the first albums I ever bought..

so does your wedge point nose high or stay flat and plow?