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No problem, glad to do it .

Just be glad you were not running MSB ,it would have melted the rear cylinder clean off.

Speaking of that coach prime was talking really big before last weeks game , could it possibly be that just like Auburn they hadn't actually played a real team yet ?

Veered off course for a minute, at any rate the thread continues. I mixed up some cabosil and microballons and put it around the buttons and in in a couple of places where I know from experience that it doesn't like to pull down properly under vacuum. I cut the glass , I am using four layers...

I am not going to get into it here but no it wasn't splashed, I guess there always has to be one guy, so now that we know who it is think whatever you want because you will anyway.

Cool following !

I carved a set out of expanded PVC on my first X2, they were damn ugly compared to these , it's nice to be able to step your game up without it costing a fortune. I built a set and put on the 650SX then built a hollow one for the X2 build and now these sets for the Superjet and the 300SX.

I didn't make the molds , but I do have the molds and they were not splashed or stolen so that's all that matters to me .

Now we get to the part where you absolutely don't skimp , ever ! PVA or poly vinyl alcohol , You can brush it on, spray it on, put it in a spray bottle , whatever, I like to shoot it on with the Satajet personally as it gives good even coverage , you want three coats waiting 15 -20 minutes for...

So that brings us up to wax coat number 10 , the mold is so slick now that nothing will stick to it, I know I tried installing the plastic buttons and they fell right of, I gently cleared where they go and stuck them using a tiny drop of Gorilla glue, I am sure I will regret this later but...

The bill went from $21,600 to $3600 Unbelievable , finally I have some breathing room !

So we are on coat number six, this is where I start getting everything set up, I am using putty tape for sealant tape, why you ask because that's what bag sealant tape is, it is just way more expensive if you label it sealant tape, I don't need a lot of sealing on this so I cut the tape in half...

I did mine that way when I put the PJS resonator in the left footwell, that works too.

Next we wax the mold, now you can by mold release but mold release is 100% Carnauba wax, you can look it up for yourself, car wax is a hella lot cheaper. On this one I am also trying a product I use on the Seadoos to bring the gelcoat back to life, its Zep floor wax, it goes on easily , dries...

I am Making a tubbie for the other side of the 300SX and I thought I would do a detailed thread start to finish so you can see the process involved. A couple of things , this is how I do it, how you do it or most likely how you think you would do it may be different, I am doing it this way ...

The pistons are always undersized to account for the clearance 84.91 piston for 85mm bore leaving .009 or .0035 " piston to wall clearance which is way too tight on a Wiseco piston. On an 84mm bore bare minimum would be .0005 and it really needs to be .0006 or .00065 " Even a cast piston like...

So I told you if I just had something, anything really to work with I would make some progress, I finally said F it and stick welded the pieces together, someone can pretty them up with the tig later, right now it's go time ! That is as far as I can go with stick welding, everything else will...

A seadoo HX box will also work in there to exit out the side and forward of the tubbie.

Might want to be a little more clear on that since a lot of guys are running 1100 Kawi motors, just saying.

I think I have a stock box here somewhere, probably at my other shop. Iam going to run triple resonators with no waterbox ,The die grinder idea came from a true genius , Art Gomez @Jetworx