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You have no problem, it is doing exactly what its designed to do.

Depends on how you normally ride. Footholds and a short pole are great at low speeds but kill my back when going fast. I shortened my pole 3" and made full length slots for my tray. That got the CG forward enough for 5'8-175 and a painless riding position at any speed.

Its not the porting, its the compression, timing, and fuel. Freestyle porting is just to maximize low rpm response, it does not make the most power. The reason why they say no WOT is because the engine is set up with too much compression and timing. They hit hard that way, but also burn up fast.

Stock Superjet ignitions have no high rpm timing retard. Setting up a proper squish will require you to back off the timing and that kills throttle response. Stock ignitions require thick and/or narrow squish with more spark lead for good freeride performance. A programable ignition provides the...

X2s self circle better than most skis, your idle must be very low. The early 750ss boats had no lanyard and a steering spring. It should not be difficult to attach a bungee/spring from the steering crossover to one of the compression struts.

Find a 701 cylinder. They are about as good as a ported 650 cyl. If you want to spend the time to learn something new then cut your 650.

The last thing that the "pros" want to see is their customers doing the work themselves. They have little to worry about since this hobby/sport has such a high turnover rate. I am surprised that prop specs are not often spoken of considering that current engine/pump setups have been worked out...

That engine is a rust bucket, just run it until it blows.

There are several trig calculators on the net. Spend a few minutes and learn the basics, it will change your life.

The answer is which ever one that I currently own, that will be the best ski for anything. Does that help any?

It should be worth at least the same as what it would cost to buy and modify a stock head for 81-82mm bore. The 29cc domes are perfect for pump gas on a stock 61x cyl, $80+ if it is new.

Its not hard to do, buy a large Tracker or Alumacraft and put a Mercury or OMC inboard jet drive. They made them from 90-175hp all through the 90s and have 200-250hp models today. Using an 1100+cc pwc setup will do the job but takes up a lot of room. Plus the rich guy wont like all the vibration...

It needs to have all the aftermarket goodies before it would be a good deal assuming that it needs a lot of maintenance, like all old skis do. A PERFECT stock 91-93 would be worth $700 to me.

They do exist but are not common. A 760 gasket is great for a stock head but a little too big for Westcoast domes. Why do you want a tight squish on a Yamaha?

For static thrust I use a 3" Bimba air cylinder filled with diesel and a 100psi guage. I measure dynamic pressure with a pitot tube behind the nozzle.

Without a tuned pipe, more power with less noise is difficult. With a tuned pipe it is very easy. No piped ski needs to exceed stock noise levels.

It will run its entire life at WOT as long as the compression is not too high and the timing is not too advanced for the fuel. Stock setting are the baseline for safe pump gas operation. You can exceed pump gas octane and get away with it in short bursts.

There is not much of a shoulder on the shaft. Pushing it into the inner race made it too tight and run hot. This is the reason press fit (C3, C4) bearings have more internal clearance than standard. I have not had any problems using a standard 6205 in a midshaft though.

Use the 650 electrics and raise the rev limit a little. Its better if the carb bracket is there but most people remove them.

Turf padding or EVA floor padding is the stuff to use. I would buy or build it up at least 1 inch thick and glue it to the existing bumper . I have had to repair two cracked poles where riders slammed them down against the stock bumper.