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ask the "man" himself....lol

hell yeah.

if it's on there pretty good and not real thick, it's probably not a problem if you're going to paint over it. if you're determined to get it all off, you might try some kind of a citrus-based paint stripper that will not harm the resin in the fiberglass.

yes, as soon as your screen name becomes bold italic.

poor guy, he's sellin' oxy-clean in coke heaven now.

you mean paint it? or do you mean spray more oven cleaner on it? you can spray the oven cleaner on it, but it probably won't eat the paint too well. if you're gong to paint the inside of the hull, use an epoxy-based fuel resistant paint like appliance paint, etc... it's kinda like gelcoat...

whatever you do, do NOT use a paint stripper on it, it will eat into the resin of the hull. when you're using different kinds of cleaners, be very careful of the types of cleaners you mix together. some of them don't go together very well and can cause serious emergency health problems. for...

the "spud gun" effect. glad you're ok bro.

just spray the inside of the thing with oven cleaner, let is set for about 15 minutes, spray it down again, then rinse it. that stuff will strip anything off of there. I've been using oven cleaner for years, never had a problem with it eating smc. it eats the hell out of grease and carbon...

not sure about that. I don't remember if they were trying to run a gearbox or not. there was another group that were also building 440 hull to accept a wetbike pump and three cylinder suzuki engine from something. to get the pump to fit, they had to take a sawzall and cut the whole bottom...

I know a guy that grafted a friggin kz1000 into a 440 hull back in the early '90s.

yeah man, you're the proud owner of the baddest ski on the planet....lol congrats.

lol, I hear ya bro.

curious here, but how in the world did you end up with bearings in the driveshaft flange? it's just a rubber coated four-holed plate with a greased bushing to hold the shaft. did you change the stock one out for some other type of bearing housing or something? :confused:

if the head is warped a little, you can resurface it yourself with a sheet of 220 grit sandpaper masking taped to a sheet of flat glass of a decent thickness. like 1/4" thick. using a "figure 8" pattern. if you get it milled you will definitely have to run a gasket so your compression won't be...

how about "Highly Technical Smackline". lol

if you do a compression test when it's cold, and you get 150 psi, then it gets hot and you're down to 100-115, you most likely have a warped head. also, it's not necessary to run a head gasket, as there is no squish interference with the 440's and 550's, like on the larger displacement motors...