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They are either happy with what they have or dont realize how much power they are missing with a B-pipe. Any expensive engine upgrade should also get a dry pipe but they havent caught on with common riders. Nobody talks about power and thrust, only the size of their carbs and engines.

If you cant get it all at once then get a Coffmans and a low piched prop first. Those items will make the most difference.

Look at that expansion slot under the bridge.

Thick fiber gaskets crush over time, check the head bolts every season and especially after the first ride on a new one.

It doesnt matter which pipe and cylinder combo you have "IF" you can tune your pump. Low port/long pipe will have the lowest operating RPM and can tolerate steeper props. High port/short pipe combos need lower pump loading. BTW the stinger is designed to create a restriction to flow so that the...

The cheapest power you can get is putting a stock 62T cyl on your existing low end. Changing cases, carbs, and using a large bore 61X cylinder is expensive and best suited for freestyle standups.

There is not much difference between a 38 and 44 until the pump load is lowered. A Coffmans pipe will do a lot more by itself regardless of pump load. Worry more about getting a pipe instead of the size of you carb.

You better get some padding under the waterbox. It will rub a hole in both the box and hull.

The stock 38 is big enough for for most 650s. Get a 1991-1996 manifold to go with it. Bigger carb have little benefit without a good pipe and 6800+ rpm.

Just seal them up and take it for a spin. The old 750 hull already easy to get on edge so the tubbies that you got may be too much of a good thing. Racers would often use flat plates on the sides to make them easier to ride at high speeds. The 96 was the best year for the original hull, it had...

Then use the Aquavane and the low pitched Skat prop.

Unfortunately the FPP 62T manifold is just a very sloppily drilled and cut 61X manifold.

The Westcoast grate is garbage in rough conditions, the Aquavane is better but still not deep enough. You need a modern prop like a 12-18 Concord or Skat 9-17 swirl and a large nozzle for best thrust.

I have tuned 44s on a 650, they will make the pipe hit a little harder once tuned. You probably wont be very happy if they arent well tuned, most people struggle getting to that point, even with a single. Reed stuffers have limited value on a 650.

You need to take it apart and inspect everything. Old skis always need a lot of maintenance because nobody ever seems to do it.

First you must ask what you want from your tubbies. The way they are pictured will add lift and lateral stability with a little suck down while carving. The small aft radius will reduce their effectiveness compared to a larger radius fair. Chop the rear edge off square and you will get only...

I wonder if PJS, Westcoast, Mariner, R&R Jettech, Butches, Lees, DCT, and Castiac were crying the same river fifteen years ago? These were the "real" businesses of the day that were forced out by the current establishment. Someday you will get to feel it first hand when your career gets offshored.

That is the biggest load of BS Ive heard since the CEO of my company last spoke.

For going fast, I like the longest extended plate I can get. For flat water try running no plate. YOUR preference will be somewhere in between. Handlepole length is an equally important consideration.

Yep, use the stock 44 and learn how to tune it. Most of the power is in the cylinder, pipe, and pump. Bigger carbs and 62T cases will wake up the pipe but often wont go much if any faster than that little single 44. This is because they go rich at peak rpms where the small carb does not. There...