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I think your pilot/popoff is rich enough. You must tune the main jet/ top adjuster at full throttle on smooth water if you ever do high speed runs. Single carbs can be unpredictable so always start too rich and lean it to peak power. Its too easy to burn a piston otherwise.

The install is important but so is the fit. If the bearings require excessive force to install then do some measuring and see what is out of spec. I used C3 fit bearings on my first one, they went in tighter than I like but it runs fine. I cut my second pump.

Skis stress material more in bending than tension. That is interlaminar shear. Carbon is a little stronger than glass in this area but it loads up faster. This is why carbon cannot take a hit in one place as well as glass. Carbon will overload and pop where glass streatches and spreads out the load.

A pair of 44s will make the pipe hit a little harder is all. They generally use more gas because they must be tuned richer at part throttle for good response. Standard SBN44s work great and are the easiest to tune.

Set it somewhere between rad and gnarly.

The biggest complaint of a 760 cylinder is that it is not responsive enough. By lowering the whole cyl you gain swept volume, increase the blowdown period, and lower the tuned rpm. The positive effect is better response and a harder hitting pipe. The negative effect is less rpm and HP potential...

This sport is completely subjective when it comes to engine performance. The only two meaningful aspects of freestyle propulsion is response and thrust. I have not found, in the past 20 years, another jet ski rider timing throttle response or measuring thrust. Its all based on personal opinion.

A wet pipe needs enough water to keep it around 200F, that takes a hole approximately .050. You dont want the rest of the exhaust that hot so add a little more water at the stinger. A properly designed waterbox (stock) will evacuate nearly all the water above idle. Most noisy aftermarket boxes...

If your budget is limited, repitch your impeller and bore the nozzle. This will improve thrust and response noticeably. A large hub impeller and 12 vane pump will keep working when your small hub/stock pump struggles. You will need to raise the rev limit a little with the low pitched impeller...

Carbon is around $100 for every pound saved compared to glass.

Tune the hottest cylinder.

Stubby cones on stock pumps make no difference. Boring the nozzle will increase thrust, I use 85mm. The small hub 12/17 is about right for most 701/760 cylinders. the exhaust port height, pipe, compression, and ignition timing will determine how responsive it will be. A high port/low compression...

Take the carb apart and get all the water out of the tank.

I would use and cut the Solas body since this is a max effort type of mod, you should also widen the pump inlet as well. Dont bother unless you are willing to make sure the 148 impeller is perfectly matched to the engine.

You can always step out of them when you are cruising fast. Dont install them unless you are going to try stabs and rolls.

It operates from crankcase pressure changes on every stroke. One squirt for every revolution, it will flow more smoothly when the engine is running.

A stock pump FX1 will benefit much less from compression than the same engine in a SJ, especially with stock porting. The problem is, it has an 8500rpm pump with a 7000 rpm engine.

The water passages in the head are different. The Westcoast is drilled for a 61X gasket.

Metal gaskets dont change. It is thick fiber gaskets that crush and need checking after a good heat cycle.

All of these rules show that the IJSBA represent equipment providers only. Model specific classes are better for participants, general classes are best for MFGs.