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It is the pilot/popoff mixture that makes the difference on standups. Stock 38s are set lean at part throttle and still have good response because they are small. I have found that a single 44 with 120 pilot is as good as 38s as long as the popoff is over 30psi. This condition usually hurts...

All the high temp oil will leave a oily exhaust outlet. TCW3 leaves a soft sticky residue and standard JASO or APT-TC leaves a dry sooty residue. I like TCW3 for free ride stand ups. Save the expensive stuff for high performance setups.

That is a lot of wear. It usually takes some sand in the splines to get that bad. The shaft tunnel will always have sand laying in it. Guess what happens every time you remove and reinstall the pump. The only way to prevent this is by sliding the engine forward and pulling the short shaft while...

The smallest exhaust leak will make it run bad. Ride it with the hood propped open for a quick test. Also make sure the feet of the box are sitting on rubber or else they will eat a hole through the hull. I make the hoses squeaky clean and install them wet with RTV.

Just make sure the converter is staying locked most of the time. Turn off overdrive if you have to work the accelerator very much.

I'm sure that someone can provide us with anything we want in a ski as long as it's possible. Do we even know what we want?

Has anyone tried installing a cap/resistor in the pulser line to see if it would regard timing with rpm? It it worked we would have a $3 MSD replacement.

Does anyone really know what they want their ski to be, other than, "cool" ? Racers seem most interested in winning the race. Freestyle/freeride is an ever changing pageant.

Try one with a 94mm nozzle!

The pipe cooling port is clogged. It is located under the aft bung, its just a .050" drilled hole.

L Those 38 are running too rich at part throttle. They can run cleaner and still have good response when compared to larger carbs. 44s draw fuel very well on smaller engines and can can be tuned for somewhat clean running with stock flame arresters.

How about turning a $100 adapter for a 760 manifold?

Mod the 38 if, you are up to your eyeballs in them and your time is worth nothing. An unmodified sbn44 flows more and is extremely easy to tune. They wont go much, if any, faster but will hit the pipe sooner and feel more responsive.

Flow is not restricted by a 75mm hub. There is no work being done at the hub so making it larger keeps water and air from flowing backwards at the root of the blades. Large hubs prime faster and make more thrust as low hull speeds. That is why they seem so much better to us. Large hub impellers...

Ill bet those pistons had a LOT of taper. Or else you found a way to make a lot of power with very low combustion temps and do it with less fuel than anyone else, which is great. I doubt that the average SJ owner will be too successful going down that road. The issue here is a piston that got...

We would not have this thread and you wouldnt have learned anything if your machinist cut your bore just .002" larger to begin with.

It takes several minutes of overly rich running for plugs to get dark. The plugs heat range also make a big difference. A mixture that would turn a #9 black will make a #6 light brown. Generally #8s are the best compromise for skis. Congrats, you are about to be an expert carb tuner.

A 50cc cylinder can dissipate the hottest combustion temps gasoline can make at 7000 rpm. A 300-400cc cylinder can barely get to best power temps without melting.

Pay attention when you start doing full throttle pulls. The plugs will be dark whenever you run below the pipe. Best acceleration will usually still be rich of peak rpm unless the pilot is very rich. That is why I don't like reverse jetting.

Your plugs will be black if the pilot/popoff is rich enough to sputter below the pipe, which is the way all freestyle tunes should be. This is why looking at your plugs is such a waste of time. After a couple of tanks, tune the top screw for best acceleration.