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Tune your pump.

I made mine, I incorporated an internal standoff and a drain so that it separates water as well.

The idea is to create a continuously overflowing reservoir close to the carb. A second pump is needed to push any collected air back to the tank, otherwise it would all stay in the reservoir.

OEM hull/engine freestyle is completely different than what we are doing with short hulls and big engines. Backflips get more attention than hood tricks. People do whatever it takes to be popular.

It is a massive infrastructure change and a tough sell but freestyle skis would benefit running larger pumps at lower pressures. We are beginning to see the idea take hold. There's just so much existing equipment in this country. Maybe the Japs can lead the way since their stuff is produced in...

Install a static port in the heel of the inlet and a pitot behind the nozzle. I think you will find that for a given rpm, thrust will follow inlet pressure.

When measuring thrust and comparing it to the inlet/outlet area, i find find that the column of incoming water has to be moving over 20MPH. A heavy couch can feed a pump very well but a light standup will always be boiling water over the blades reducing its thrust capacity. This is why a massive...

If it runs good, get a modern impeller and bore the nozzle. You will burn a piston if the compression or timing is pumped up.

How about a well designed 1400 with an untuned exhaust. (manifold-muffler: stub pipe). Can we get enough power without going through all this.

I hope they have at least read a textbook on composite materials and structures. Most builders at this level focus entirely on appearance and cost. There is too many hulls that either weigh too much or fall apart.

I thought he was Billy Idols dad.

Steeper impellers boil water at low speeds which hurts thrust. If it takes more than 16-17 degrees of pitch to load the engine, a larger diameter pump should be used. The advantage diminishes as the ski gets moving so there is little if any top end improvement. The entire inlet needs to be...

If they are SXI carbs then they are tiny 38s used only in 1995. The 93-94 XI carbs were 40s. They will almost certainly need larger pilots, hold 1/4 throttle and test response. Pilots are very sensitive so dont make large changes. Adjust the top screw to see where the mains are, then size them...

It is a durable coating that resists wear. Make sure to blast off all the old paint and scale. The stainless screws and mounting studs have a way of scratching through any finish causing galvanic corrosion. Using lots of thread sealant or marine grease will make all the difference.

The stock pipe will need leaner jetting. You may get away with just closing the top screws. A rich pilot wont hurt surf riding.

It doesn't suck for the guys you're paying.

I prefer the big mikuni pump mounted high on the tank with stock return ports in the carbs. Any boat that gets a lot of full throttle gets an additional pump feeding an air separator ahead of the carb pump.

Thats not too bad. Clean all the crap out of the mid shaft, the splines, and shaft tunnel. Make it perfectly clean and reassemble with fresh grease. ANY grit will take out the splines.

The seal spooge is normal. The dark cyl is running hotter, open the top screw 1/4-1/2 turn or up the main one size.

Maxima 927 is castor and ester, that is why it mixes well with gasoline and is relatively clean. It is the most user friendly castor but will still leave the exhaust system very nasty in a ski.