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Its going to be a turd without a supercharger. Yamaha will have to bribe the racing organization to bring back 1980s size racetracks. Of course Kawasaki will want tracks with two mile long straits.

No, those numbers have absolutely nothing to do with performance. Yamaha used a permanent mold casting with transfers set a 116 degrees open. They then installed cylinder sleeves with 120 degree windows in all 61x cylinders. 62T cylinders have the casting and sleeves both set a 120 degrees open...

In a twostroke, lead is mildly abrasive, its not an issue in high performance applications . Lead is the easiest way to get the octane up.

Purple Power or Castrol super clean is very caustic and will horribly etch most aluminum. Its works great to decarbon the inside of a pipe. Simple Green is mild enough for most bare aluminum.

The low screw is for idle only! The top is for full throttle only! Set the low screw on the trailer. Set the top by getting the best pull at full throttle. Open the top until power is lost and close just enough to restore best pull. For idle do the opposite, close the lower screw until the...

They look normal for an NGK no.8. That doesn't mean much since you could still be jetted too hot at full throttle and they darken instantly with the typically rich part throttle settings. My plugs end up dark brown, sometimes black with a peaked out WOT and the pilot rich enough for best response.

None of these engines make much power without a good pipe. You will need to bore the nozzle and get your impeller pitched down for better low speed response.

Use methanol if you can handle the maintenance.

Port the cylinder and use a dry pipe. That is where almost all the power comes from. You WILL need to get good at carb tuning. Check the ignition timing and run some race gas. Aftermarket flywheels often advance the timing. Remember, it is VERY easy to stick a piston trying to go fast.

I ream worn 6mm pins (.243) to (.250). Go 5/16" (.312) and you can tighten it up with an 8mm (.315) after a season.

It wont matter as long as you are running some kind of waterbox. The sound will be a little higher pitched. A TPE with a laydown pipe will probably overpower a 144 pump at low speeds.

Im sure that old SJ is ready for some maintenance. If you're wondering, just adding a 701 cylinder is all it would take to blow away a stock 2020. A little porting on top of that will get you into the high 40s.

They get bent from hitting the ground. We had a really long Worx plate that was easy to bend. Most of the ones that are only an inch or so longer are fairly stout. I use 1" washers for shims, one in the middle and two at the rear. You want to seal the grate. Sealing the plate is OK just make...

The rear edge needs to be the lowest part of the hull. It will hop uncontrollably if the rear bent up higher than the keel. I often have to shim ride plates to make them right. Jet dynamics acts like a finned plate but is still race legal. It doesn't do much for the flat turning SJ other than...

Any extended plate, make sure the rear edge is at or below contour. Definitely get the worx 201. The cone is a total waste of money and the 9/15 is wonderful. If it still hops, shorten the pole. I think anyone over 150 probably needs a shorter pole.

Definitely look for leaks. The bottom adjuster controls idle mixture. You should be able to richen the idle mixture enough even with a small air leak.

I have found that water likes to flow up the sides of the hull until it hits the lip and goes strait into the F/A. I glued a piece of turf to the lip vertically and it helped noticeably. A stock 760 F/A and a dry hull was the best solution I found. Giving up the cool F/As is a tough sell for...

We used two pumps back when everyone was subbing.

It was the seals making heat.

I don't think anything will ever change until the average age of the standup rider is over 50.