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He's airborne from hitting a small wave. Look at the splash just behind him.

It will mainly depend on your physical size. Anyway, nothing ventured nothing gained, you're sure to learn something from the endeavor.

Try it and see how you like it. The short hulls with short poles are rarely planed out. They just mush along and use power to do a flip. You can add a 750 nozzle wedge if its too short for your height/weight.

It takes a lot of power to make a short boat work.

Backflip boats use laydown pipes. Pre backflip equipment is just getting old. Last weekend I counted two rickters, two square nose, one SXR, and FIVE 550s! I wonder if WestCoast will make another batch of 550 pipes?

FWIW...........Ive had the best results with Teflon pipe dope on any fastener that has some length and can stretch to hold tension. Make sure to put some under the bolt head to seal out water. Very short fasteners get Loctite. Fjywheel bolts get metallic antiseize. One good thing about the...

They didn't build them with much care. Its common to find voids in glue joints. I found all my leaks by applying light vacuum and pressure. Drill a tiny hole above the exhaust outlet level with the tray, there is usually a void in the foam there. You can use a bit of vacuum and listen for...

I-series carbs have a much larger choke area in relation to the throttle plate. They need much larger main jets than an SBN. A restrictive flame arrestor may be required to make an I-46 work on a small engine.

Im not a snob, I have an 650sx that will top 50 and in its unique way, is rather fun to ride.

Yea they are a waste of money. Change the steel reeds to fiberglass if the ski is over 2 years old. That being said, a friend has a 1996 with over 200 hrs and original steel reeds. Simply boring the nozzle will make a noticeable increase in low speed pull. You must learn to tune carbs...

The SJ and 650sx is best ski for riders that cant stay on top of a 550 or fx1.

Power tune the main circuit and you will never burn a piston, unless you get too much air in the fuel line.

The specs above would be a good starting point. I used 140 mains and the top screw ended up a turn out with a stock F/A. Make sure you engine can get close to 7000rpm. Flame arresters can alter the main circuit greatly.

Get the pump worked out first. Stock or standard SBN44s will make the pipe hit a little harder. Not difficult to tune but will require a little richer pilot/popoff setting than 38s.

Forums are dying off with the participants. Most kids live entirely inside now and are too fat to enjoy any physical sport. Im looking to pass the torch but cant find much interest.

Clean you shop vac and install a fine yellow bag. Run your rotary sanders slower and it will catch everything.

Small hull builders will have a very difficult time competing with the mass production shops. Small builders would be better off supporting production hulls and local customers. Not an easy way to make a living but a good outlet for a retired guy with some passion for the sport.

The Kawasaki pipe mounts farther away from the engine than the Yamaha version.

Plus there is always some sand in the shaft tunnel that gets on the splines every time the pump is pulled. How many riders unbolt their engine, pull the mid shaft, and clean everything before they re install the pump???? I didn't at first but I do now. My spline wear is very low.

Also the system for maintenance is broken down into small tasks that usually have to be inspected. This is why there is no training requirement for working on airplanes. An A&P allows mechanics to do more self inspection or inspect other mechanics work which is only needed on the flight line...