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That little anode does very little in a PWC environment. It would have some benefit if the cylinder stayed flooded with coolant all the time.

Footholds are in the way unless you are doing a roll or stab. Consider this before you become a fashion victim. Plus if you practice rolls on a SN the sides will fail before you learn how.

Consumers generally have very little sense of value. They just want it as cheap as possible. US consumer products are also junk unless the buyer demands otherwise.

I agree a SN top deck is garbage. Poor material and not enough room in the front. It’s interesting to watch how people’s assessment can vary so much on things that are so similar.

I weighed a couple of SN ready to ride, one was 330 and the other was 340 but it had a heavy Protec pipe and an old aluminum pole.

Corrosion problems are mostly aluminum close to any steel or carbon fiber part. Of course, stainless on stainless will gall without clean threads and lube. I have had great luck over the years with any Teflon thread sealant on PWC fasteners. Use it on threads and bolt heads, it seals out water.

Footholds will keep you from sliding forward during nose stabs and do a good job of holding your feet during rolls. The rest of the time they are usually too far back and make you ride bent over a lot. I removed the exhaust tube and made slots all the way to the front. While not for everyone...

The tray is connected to the top deck only and doesnt actually touch the bottom except at the rear. Your foam may not be very wet, bore some holes to the bottom and see. If you plan on making a new tray, cut the gunwale near the floor. If you want to save the floor then cut the floor and leave...

The 49s need a reduction venturi to work well over many applications. These carb modifiers would do better if they offered different venturi inserts. There is a lot of easy money in carbs once you have some name recognition.

I would set it at 7000. Or put the stock unit back in. A stock 650 won’t get to 6500 unless the pump is out of the water.

Glass will stretch more than carbon when it is loaded so they are seldom used together. They can be mixed to suite a special purpose but generally not. It is common to see a light weight glass part use some carbon whenever it needs extra stiffness.

Its hard to find young people that want to come out and ride for free anymore. We need more new hype than new hulls. I think a flip hull can be made/sold much cheaper than they currently are. Boat building is seldom a profitable business. Do it as long as you enjoy it.

Now that we have the MFG process figured out, lets get some bottom dimensions so buyers can know what to expect.

A hull builders operating cost is the wild card. Some guys have low overhead and can afford to make hulls below the current rate. This happened a lot in the 70s but is rare now. I know of a local boat MFG that had a great product and regional success after winning some Mod VP races. He ended up...

Ive never heard anyone say a particular hull has too much grip or is too slippery in turns. Although I think the SXR based WDK ROC has too much grip and old Rickters are too slippery. Anything in between will probably be great. A wide oversized pump inlet is ALWAYS a good thing, except for...

Just make it look "cool". Nothing else really matters in the jetski world.

Let see, I have "real" riding skills! I ride short fat hulls and can make them rotate and spin! Anything longer and skinnier than whatever it is Im riding, well just sucks. They cant haul my 80 pound head around.

Superjets are getting harder to find. Try a Round nose copy that has removable hull sections next to the pump. Being able to easily change the length would accommodate any size rider and any type of riding. Raise the top deck to make the hood shorter so it wont get blown off on side landings...

I could never let noobs loose on my old X2, they would always have it swamped after a few minutes.

Getting the pump load just right is more critical when a good pipe is installed. Stock exhausts have little tuning so power goes flat as rpm peaks. I can say boring the nozzle will always make the ski pull harder. Any of the props mentioned above will work well without modification.