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As of this evening, it sits like this............"Trust me,...I'm a professional".

I'm doing this build for a customer of mine. The plan here will be a very nice looking and running 750 conversion swap along with a 750 pump.......and full cosmetic rehab. I'm starting with a VERY clean '92 model with a good running engine. The basic swap parts are coming from a 90's 750ss...

I think it depends on what you call fast. Are you talking 48ish like a stock sxr? Or are we talking 53+ like a piped/modded sxr? My tweaked 650sx runs 43/44 consistently with a modified stock exhaust and stock tiny 28mm carb.......and I can literally ride all over the lake all day long on 4...

With watchful measurements, the plain old spring loaded 3 stone hone does a fine job in MOST situations. I use one all the time. If a bore is out of round enough to warrant the nice Sunnen type hone.........it's normally time for a fresh oversize bore anyway.

Either will work fine but as a bonus, the flex hone will also chamfer the ports a bit at the same time. 180 or 220 grit.

Not exactly the way I do things but a great how-to never the less.

Not all epoxy primers are sealers. And not all sealer primers are epoxy. The SprayMax that WFO linked is a good product. It's a legit 2k epoxy primer that can be used as a sealer as well. I usually buy mine in a can to spray from the gun after I thin it some. That's what most auto body guys do...

Good write up by WFO. I have also used Bulldog for painting plastic, it's a great product! Here is the basic process I use for painting. -Sand everything down smooth. If the existing paint has multiple layers, sand down to AT LEAST the first layer. Most oem paints or primers are adhered really...

Reason my bro-in-law never did anything with it is cause the Vin tag was baked to the point it was unreadable and the 2nd vin was gone. He just didn't want to mess with the paperwork.

Pics of said hull from my bro-in-law. Buuuuuuuttt.............I also have the whole reed 550 driveline in good condition (I mean EVERYTHING) to go in this thing if somebody wants to get into a reed 550 at a reasonaable price! Then I could just fix mine.....either way is fine with me.

Maybe a new plan. I came across a '95 hull cheap. Any reason I shouldn't just build it instead? I would really only gain rear exhaust but wouldn't have to mess with the bonding line.

Terry and John, well wishes to both you guys. I'm just now getting close to 50 but so far so good. I don't want to go through any of that crap!

Looking good bro!

I shoved some aluminum mesh in my wife's and it made a HUGE difference in the db level! https://www.pwctoday.com/forum/general-interest/individual-builds/301000-slow-superjet-sn-rebuild?p=5449510#post5449510

I've used one like that for a couple years. No problem on a RXTis or Ultra310 ski and I think they're the heaviest out there. Also works good for a truck cab lol!

Not me.....I use one of these.....Coast Guard Approved!!!

OMG.........the hours of masking LOL!

You're killing me Smalls!

Don't double them up. It appears in that vid as if there is enough stiffness to push your finger back........no good, too thick. Basically if you can get under it with your fingernail and lift off the edge and it pops closed with a little snapping noise.....its too thick. That's aftermarket and...

Yes, bubbles are normal right after a pop and air pressure still applied.