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Just get a cheapo flycutter and a piece of tool steel. Set it up and spin the drill by hand until you know it's centered. Adjust the cutter out a tiny bit and cut! Then again..........I have a real mill LOL!

Thanks for checking it out!

In case anybody is wondering, I've used quite a few NEW cylinders from WSM over the last few years without any issues.

Man, that would be great! Go for a ride AND cook your lunch!!!

After that I fit the intake grate and ride plate up. The ride plate was all good no issues. The intake grate needed some fine tuning. I'd guess for most folks a fat bead of silicone and mount it up is "Good Enough". Well, I don't do things like that. The edge of the pump shoe was making some...

I got a few more hours in on this build today. Of course it was already sweltering hot because first thing I did was run over to a buddies shop to help check out a no reverse issue on a 700r4 in his 72 Chevelle. I found a stuck spool in the reverse boost valve, and a couple valves in the valve...

True DAT!!!!!

I got about 5 hours in today on the exhaust. If you remember WAAaayyy earlier I might have eluded to a special trick up my sleeve for it. Well, the stock 650sx pipe does NOT point the right direction for the waterbox inlet. AND,....I wanted to add a bit of length for a better overall power...

Skis in my area HAVE come back down some........ BUT, there are still LOTS of good running older 2 strokes around here. I regularly bill out $400-$800 on 90's skis fuel system rehab. I feel like it's also very location dependant. For instance, an average condition 2005 Seadoo GTX or Yamaha VX in...

And since everything is in it's permanent home I mocked up the exhaust so I can decide exactly where I want to cut it. Do you HAVE to cut it.........NO. BUT, I want it bent and pointing straight at the waterbox inlet. Plus I wanted to add a bit more volume to it as well.

And I moved on to mounting up the bilge siphon and a powered bilge pump.

I tested the starter and it sounded pretty weak......took it apart and found the main brass power strap broke. Well, I had another starter here that worked good but had boogered gear teeth. SOOoooo, I took 'em both apart and made one good one!

I got most of today in working on this project. Pump is mounted, driveshaft and bearing/seal installed, engine dropped in, and all of it lined up to perfection!

This is a brand new poly/plastic Rhaas ride plate for a 750 pump conversion. WILL NOT work with stock 550 pump. $150 shipped.

Here's what I've noticed through the years. IF the bronze bushing sticks out of the case OR has a flange, there is no thrust washer. IF the bushing sits IN the case where the gear COULD rub the aluminum....it has a thrust washer.

Well........it's not SUPPOSED to, but I've torn plenty of engines down that still had a tablespoon or so sitting down in the bottom of cylinders......not enough to freeze and bust out.

Jeez....these 10+ hour days trying to catch up are wearing on me. Water testing AFTER we close, dinner after 8PM..... My wife is now telling people that call that we're not taking any more in right now. I am about 3+ weeks out and SOMEBODY has to move and mow around all these! Pics are actually...

Ya, I just go by feel. If I can still hold my hand on the head and cylinders on a 2 stroke, it's OK to run. Exhaust manifold on the 4 strokes.

Does the voltage still drop way out with the new battery? If so, the starter is weak.

I turn mine to reserve and fire it up. Then I wrap a rubber band around the throttle pinning it to the bars. Then I go ahead and drive home and shut it back off after I get home. Plenty hot and dry to avoid engine damage.