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There is a thin quarter sized washer on the back side of the bendix. Not sure how it would ever come out if the bendix was still attached. There is a washer on both sides of the tension spring that the front shaft of the bendix rests against. Check out numbers 21 & 22

Check it out, it finally happend, Gil's ski finally gets rolled! :booty::booty::booty::booty:

No bilge pumps either I was told?!!??!! The tow / recovery crew came out late yesterday and searched for it. They circled the area for about an hour and then sent down a diver but no luck. They said the bottom varies from 4 to 20 ft and that was making it hard to get their sonar equip to read...

Harrison (Up in the air right now - gonna try) MADSCIENTIST AND FAMILY ( DUH) gilgoneround and Cheryl pyro723 ginoneworleans shonuff and fam stonerock zamron cattledog mrs cattledog wcf rickster mezz 335 gump wfo speedracer VIRGIN ronnymac mike young( is a tentative) kamikaze kantz ( also...

Thats exactly what I use on small gouges, bigger cracks or repairs and I use pigmented epoxy resin with fiberglass cloth. The Ace hardware epoxy appliance paint works well but it takes several days to fully cure.

I would think that it would not be a good idea to side mount a horizontal shaft engine into a vertical mount position. While it would run like this you would probably eat crank bearing pretty quick. The oil galleys are designed to collect oil to lubricate the crank main bearings as gravity draws...

I have seen several hulls that had leaks in the bond line. I have been filling all the holes and gaps with epoxy thickend with adhesive filler.

I always start by making sure the driveshaft is not bent. Jig it up and use a dial indicator to see how far out it is and straighten if necessary. Then remove the midshaft assy and install the pump so you can see the driveshaft from inside the engine compartment. The shaft end should be centered...

Yep, my build was on a 96 hull 2 years ago and just this past summer the right foothold cracked near the exh tube. It leaked in for at least 5 months of riding. I started to notice that it would leak from the drive shaft tube onto the floor for days after riding. I defoamed it a few weeks ago...

I have used some planks of polyproplene true closed cell foam that I carved up to fit. This is the same type of foam that the insert in the front of a SJ is made of. It is light and takes up space in the bottom so you don't use so much pour in foam.

Yeah stupid posers, I bet they are proud that they paid to keep this site around so all the other posers can share the beach. :rant:

acetone will loosen it up and you can wipe, scrape it off. Make sure the surfaces are clean before you start again. Wipe them down with an acetone soaked cotton rag to remove all wax, oils, or left over mold release agents on the fiberglass. Also you need to scratch up the fiberglass surface...

I have never had much problem with contact cement not sticking unless I did not wait long enough to let it dry. My rule of thumb is two coats on the turf side and one coat on the hull, wait for 10 or 15 minute or until completely dry and join the two pieces. You should get an instant bond. I...

You already have enough glo!

Ooh look, I have a new and improved italic boldy name now like a few others now and no more pesky ads either.:nana: This is great, everyone should get some. Don't be skeered, its only $10 get some while they are hot.

I'm in for a year and glad to do it. Man up you slackers and spend that $10, you can't take it with you so spend it on something worthwhile like this forum. I was glad to donate before and will pay again next year if I can remember to do it. A reminder email would be nice because I know I will...

It is a good idea to check the battery voltage to see if it is rising but be aware that after a start the battery voltage will rise a bit on its own as it recovers from the heavy load of starting. If you can run the ski on a hose for a couple of minutes then you should see increasing voltage...

Great pics Chris and crew. :notworthy: I don't care if they were doctored, genetically restructured or run through a coffee grinder. I don't get the drama thing, somebody always has to rain on the parade. I guess they get a kick out of it. :loser:

It does have a good grunt with the right prop. I try to avoid extended WOT. Next project will be a 5 mil with TL so I can take out the timing at upper RPMs.

The last three posts pretty much sum it up. Check the manufacturers specs and then the kingston site tool. If they agree which they should then buy your chips accordingly.