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That is exactly what I thought. I have a single 46 and it punches pretty hard but I have a 760 cylinder on top so I know I am fighting port timing. Don't have a wetjet intake though....perhaps that would help, or a set of better reeds. Please explain why wetjet intakes are better on the 61x...

Anyone have any other referrals?

I messaged Art and here is the reply I got last night. We stopped modifying owners carbs, many times they needed extra parts and when all done the customer was only saving 50.00 over a brand new one. A new 46 mm Modified Blackjack carb is 489.95 jetted and the 48.3 mm is 599.95 jetted...

Yup...me either. Have never even looked at something like that.

hmm..I have been thinking of this for actually awhile. What does he charge to bore/mod a carb (ballpark of course).

I am at low elevation as well but no humidity here. I don't remember the reverse jetting settings I used but they weren't quite on it. I switched back to standard and got much better low end response. My carb is blocked right now so I really can't tell anything as far as responses go but the...

I tried running reverse jetting but I could never get the correct snap. I think I might try your set up if I have the jets. I am running 190 psi and am going to try an MSD...I am guessing you are running race fuel? or a 50/50 mix at that high of compression?

Would moving a 46 up to a 48 make much of a difference? I run an odd motor set up with 61x ported cases to fit 64x(760) cylinder sleeves. I have only light porting on the cylinders but have them bored a full 1mm over. So technically I am running a 787. I know the port timing is different but...

Now this is interesting. 46 to a 48...would there be a noticeable difference?

Oh good deal on the glass. Just making sure.

Nice work man. I have a couple quick comments. 1. Make sure you are overlapping the sheets of glass to avoid water intrusion. 2. I tried to use as few cuts as possible to avoid water leaks. 3. Consider installing your foot holds and building the sides at the same time. it will reduce...

My buddy and I wet sanded for over 3 hours last night. She should get shot with paint tonight...if all goes well.

Cool man...yes the price is right for sure and if you have tried and liked them our good. I am not really sure as I left that in my buddies hands. I think we are just doing one color metallic blue color from House of colors. Super cool looking very sparkly. I would have just sprayed it on...

Looking good man. Trust me I get the distraction thing. I have been dealing with Grandparents distraction since last July. What kind of hold are you using? I don't think you need to worry as much as you think about the levelness of the tray base. If you are using 16oz biax it holds its...

I used the bond line as my gauge. That was a bit of a challenge for me but once I decided to drop the whole tray down by and inch or two it was much easier to just make the pump area protrude and use the bond line as my gauge. Lower the tray and holds the more stable your boat will be...

haah...ok point taken. They should work fine than.

I don't think I will sub much either but when I do nose stabs I usually end up half under water or on my side...and I plan on doing a TON OF THOSE! :-). Anyway..do as you wish man...I just figured I would drill another set of three holes if the first choked out the motor. I have huge 2 inch...

We put the old hood on the hull...it looks so stupid. I'll tell him.

Dude ...those holes are huge. I am not sure you want that much water coming into the hood when you go underwater. Plus when the ski is on its side you'll be allowing water into the hood also. I literally plan to run 3- 1 inch holes in the dead center of the hood to allow air in while the ski is...

I can't really take credit for the lowered holds...that was Epic's idea and his hulls are super stable I have heard. As far as the position of the holds, yes..make sure you move them up at least to where you chopped the hull or your ski will ride super nose high. I moved mine 6 inches forward...