I did the opposite as I wanted my foot holds low. So my holds actually sit on the bond line and the rest of the tray is lower than the pump cavity is. The lower the holds are the more stable your ski will be (I am getting this fact from a local guy that fabricates Epic hulls). So I literally...
Here is the pic of the underside of the hood. She has been turned over for paint btw.
The body lines on the nose mod are not perfect but at this point I am on a deadline and really have to be done with it all.
I put in about 7 hours on it this weekend. It is getting really close to be ready for paint. I have a buddy that used to paint professionally so he is going to be taking it off my hands once I finish the rough sanding and shaping. I have just one section left to sand by the pole bracket...
Well, my idea was to make them only about 12-14 inches long on the very back of the tray and mold them directly to the current rail and make them slope down on a 45 degree angle. It would really only be for low speed stability while I was riding in and out of tricks or approaching a set up...
Pretty slick little mod. I was planning on doing this to my ski but we'll see how the nose shaping goes. I was planning on cutting the rail where it dropped down in the the water and glass onto the top of the existing than doing some bondo/fill work to smooth it all out. Does it really make...
I am still on and off on the bond rails. I might make them like you said and bolt them on. Because I don't feel like spending anymore time on the initial set up.
I have been putting in at least 2 hours per night and 4 -5 per day off for the last 10 days or so and I am still a ways out. Ugh...tired of chewing on fiberglass particles and having to shower after every single garage run .
And I just added winder bond flange to the docket of things to...
I did the bottom of the tray first than did the side walls.
I am getting closer but still a ways out and one of my buddy's just added another piece to the project. Wider bond flange for more stability at low speeds.
I knew it would take a long time as I have stripped and repainted my hull once before which involved a lot of glass/body fill. But never did I EVER expect it to be this involved. Every time I complete one step it creates another that I didn't anticipate. I sure hope its worth it in the end.
I still have to do a ton more glass work to get it nice and strong..plus I need to butter up the nose with cabosil so I can get the proper shape but she is slowly coming around.
This project takes FOREVER!!!
Well a lot has changed on mine since my last post. I have started the glass work on the nose and am now onto reinforcing it from inside. I only have one thin layer on the bottom and will be moving to the biax cloth but to get the curvature I want I had to go thin in the beginning.
I did...
Looking good...and the pump shoe came out easy. That can be a real pain sometimes. I did mine this season and I got lucky too. I did another layer of glass on the nose yesterday and ground down all of the ridges inside for internal reinforcement (that job SUCKED). I wish I would have been...
sweet man! The tray glass isn't that bad...just make sure you take all the paint off the areas of the gunwhales you are overlapping onto the original hull. Also...iI am sure you are in the cold right now...it helps to put a Halogen lamp pointing on the glass to help it dry faster as it...
Well Glad to hear it. So I laid the bottom 1st layer of nose glass last night and pulled the foam out this morning. What a pain it was to get the foam out but I am stoked at how it came out. Its rough right now but at least the general shape is there.
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