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well we tore the damn thing apart as far as we could and couldn't find anything wrong with it, and when i popped the head, that cylinder/piston almost looks better than the one with the 'non-strange' carb, so i guess i'll go with it. do you have any ideas of why it's doing the fast idle then...

yea we did that, both arms are perfectly flat. the only explanation we can come up with is either the needle/seat was marked incorrectly from the factory, or the hole where the spring goes either isn't as deep as the other one or is filled with goop or something.

k i'll check, no i still have the same carbs i'm gonna try to make them work because i don't have any more money to spend after this top end rebuild. they seem to be doing good except for this intermittant high idle thing.

well i finally listened to everyone and checked my pop off with a gauge before i broke in the new piston/rings. the pop off in the front carb was 20 and the rear carb was almost 40 :bigeyes: i guess i know why tuning's been such a bitch this year. i'm not sure what is up with that rear carb...

what about lowering the pilot?

well i feel like a big giant horses ass. i guess this is why you really need a pop off gauge. i just took my carbs apart to find that the 2.3's i thought i was running are actually 2.0's, and i still have the 115g spring in. oopsies :banghead: i'm putting the 95g in today and once the motor...

yea i haven't looked in the waterbox yet, but since the screw made it to the top of the piston there's no way it went back down to the crank, so it's either in the waterbox or in the lake.

i took the dome to the guy that honed the cylinder, and he looked at it and said it's fine. it's visibly scratched pretty bad, but if you run your finger along it, it's very very hard to feel anything.

hey chuck can you pm the price on those? i think you told me when i was at your place, but i forgot. my stock one is one faceplant away from being totally destroyed.

yea he knows that you need more clearance with wisecos. he said it should be fine, but the sleeves look smooth on the bottom so he was just worried that they were knocking too much. i'm sure Paul knows more about this than this guy too, and he's the one that bored them. i'm not worried about...

haha yea i did the same thing. i was in the bathroom taking water from the sink and splashing it at my face trying to get it out. there was water all over the place from me flappin around. definately sucked.

i used to do this, but i came in and did it once last summer and it turned out i had a ruptured eardrum. alcohol + hole in your ear = worse pain i have ever experienced. i never do the alcohol thing any more because of that.

i had the same problem. when i made the small hop to the right, then the big crank to the left, it would cause me to do more of a 180 than a stab. i'd find myself landing facing the way i came from, and flat instead of inverted. this worked pretty good for me and helped me to learn: stop...

like if you look at the fuel pump straight on, it's below them. or do you mean if you take off the fuel pump and look literally underneath it?

they're definately truly different. one uses orings in the fuel pump and the other uses the square gaskets. other than that they look identical. serial numbers are 61x01 and SH 34 they seemed to be doing pretty good before, so i think i'm gonna try them just because i don't want to spend...

oh boy, i figured this would be a good time to rebuild the carbs, and what do you know: two dissimilar carbs. one is a very old model while one is pretty new. that's just great. i'm gonna pop them on there and try to dial them in, and if it doesn't work i'm taking one of them to Keith Head to...

well i just got back from the shop here and he honed it for me and ordered a new piston and new rings for the old piston, so i'll be ready to ride again this weekend. :biggthumpup: he said the clearance (before hone) was 7 thousands, so that's not good, but i should be good for the rest of the...

i'm pretty sure it is from the screw. if you look at the top of the pistons, there are all kind of scratches like the screw was up there for a while, and the dome has a bunch of scratches and dents too. how do you 'peen' something? i have been running 110 mixed with 93, so i don't think...

well the compression wasn't great, it was 180. this motor should be running about 190-195, but part of the piston is missing so that probably makes up for the difference. i don't know the first thing about honing nor do i have the equipment to do it so i'm just gonna drop by a local mechanic...

i was hoping i'd never have to post in this thread...... can i get away with just a hone you think?