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It appears that the Protec pipe was designed to work with a stock head. The op shows a Riva head. Back in the day- when Hector was a pup- Riva had these adapters to work with their heads.

I think that looks quite normal for a stock head. The casting is just rough. Aftermarket heads/ domes are smooth because they are machined in the combustion area too.

You mentioned that you installed a rebuilt stator and the charge coil failed. What kind of charge coil was used for the rebuild? Some have been known to fail rapidly. My gen 1 Epics are working just fine and they don't - can't actually- eat charge coils .

besides the flywheel, you also need a stator. All 3 coils look sad. The lighting coil (that's the one for charging the bat.) seems to have cut wires. The small pulser coil, as pointed out in post # 11 has a damaged wire. The charge coil- that's the one that charges the caps in the CDI for spark-...

Or post # 10 above.

I agree with above post, but the adjustment screws are and have always been: 10-32.

I heated my nozzle to about 180 deg. C, and used a makeshift driver to push out the tube. Picture shows a piece of 3/8" ss tubing which is about 1/2mm smaller in diameter than the 10mm nozzle tube and a 5/16" stud for a guide. You could of course make a proper driver in a lathe. Member zero did...

Here is another important reason to remove the midshaft assembly while the engine is out: the 2 o rings inside the shaft should be replaced occasionally. They wear, then water enters the spline area, the grease washes out, then the splines of the drive shaft as well as the midshaft wear out-...

Sustained wot operation in 6 deg. C water (that's cold!), can be a problem. Cylinder walls might be cold, high rpm-lots of power- almost instantly raises the piston temperature. Compared to the cylinder sleeve, the aluminum piston has twice the coefficient of expansion. There goes your 0.1mm...

If the plug colors look good as stated, you may still need to open the top needle adjustment(s) about 1/8 turn, it might have been too lean on top. Also, have you ever checked your squish? One millimeter is just not enough, 1.2 -1.3 would be better. If you are using an ADA head, you might notice...

Swelling of the ss liner inside the imp. housing is caused by galvanic corrosion between the liner and the aluminum housing- when the impeller touches those high spots (usually the size of a pigeon egg- black/blue in color), it becomes "worn out" instantly and requires rewelding / resurfacing of...

I would suspect the charge coil of the stator if you're talking about a Superjet.

That's right, you can easily "dremmel" it out to fit the 62T gasket. You might need to glue the gasket to the cylinder or manifold before installation for proper alignment, since the gasket has larger holes than the fasteners you'll be using. A gasket cement such as Permatex "High Tack" would...

I just looked on Ebay, saw "new" 62T stators from the low forties to $303- no timing mark noted on that one. You might try the search function of this site- good used oem ( the only ones to consider) can be found.

Helicoil inserts work great, too, - and are a lot cheaper.

I think the spline wear was caused by "tired" o rings inside the mid shaft. Once they are worn- they become sort of flat at the shaft contact surface, - all the grease you might have put on the new drive shaft, washes away rapidly. Then, rapid wear occurs. Keep in mind, whenever you change...

Yes, that is an epoxy resin, just right for your application. Strongly suggest you read up on how to do fiberglass work.

Your ada head uses "deep reach/long" spark plugs. Your compression gauge needs to have the same length, otherwise you'll get a low reading (several cc's difference)

That would be the Lady at Factory Pipe who decides who gets what/when.

Not likely, unless you add a Takata inflator.