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Cindy always did like you better!

I would recommend to do it as Lumpy suggested. For your information, there was /is a way to flush- that was state of the art a quarter century ago...

Mehr Erfahrungen hier auf jeden Fall als auf jetboot.de

If you should already have a flush kit installed- you might consider a set up such as this. You might wish to use a RV type (alcohol based) antifreeze solution instead of ethylene glycol.

It appears that the rod bearing failed - possibly of "old age". That's when things got hot and discolored.

You're so lucky to have Jake from SF for a neighbor!

You can change the frnt. bearing just like the rear. Unfortunately it's half the price of a SBT rebuilt mentioned in post 7.

And remember: first you degrease the area, then grind.

look at this: http://x-h2o.com/index.php?threads/jm-electrical-parts-ebox-starter-bendix-flywheel-stator-start-stop-solenoid-cdi-msd.146781/

Regrettably, Yam did worse than a crappy job welding the inside baffle. They often break loose. I've cut them open before and rewelded. That's a lot of work- since you also have to clean it very (!) well before you can weld it. Found an easier way: new box from Factory Pipe. - they don't fail...

2. It's a bit labor intensive, but some ppl do it. Like Santa, I do it once a year. http://x-h2o.com/index.php?threads/superjet-ignition-coil.175350/#post-1876429

Not too simple- or easy. The crank case halves have to be "split" , to remove the crank. Then you need a thingy called a bearing splitter and a puller- Available at Harbor Freight at a somewhat affordable price. - If you're not mechanically inclined or have no previous experience with something...

Which bearing? The rear one is replaceable if you have a puller. The front one never fails. Yamaha chose to use a dbl. ball bearing at that location - back in 1990- so they would not suffer the Kawi crank failures. Any other "bad" bearings would require a new or rebuilt crank - and seals of course.

That means: Is the elec. box grounded? The black ground wire which originates at the stator plate could possibly have failed.

Pic of a similar looking rod (Hot Rods) and pic of a Rad (rebuilt)

I think the rod looked like that when it was installed on the crank. The outer surface of the large (crank) end just did not clean up when the rod was ground. That would not be too bad.

Pic shows an aftermarket crank shaft, don't know what the rods might have looked like before they were installed. There does not seem to be any rust except at those two areas that are or had been "eaten" away.

The charge coil charges the capacitors in the CDI- that's where the spark comes from. Your charge coil seems to be open, You could solder in a new or used one. Here in the US, 61X stators (I assume that's what you have, since you mentioned 360 ohm) go for about $50 on Ebay, used.

If you should like something that will last: https://shop.hamiltonmarine.com/products/fuse-holder-agc-mdl-30a-waterproof-426.html?gclid=CLaxztCK4s4CFYkehgodpAEJ7w ( just for reference) available at most any marine store, Ebay, Hot Products dealer, Amazon. Here's a pic of what's been working for me.

still new and oem