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http://x-h2o.com/index.php?threads/b-pipe-manifold-and-headpipe-525-shipped.190085/ someone wants the headpipe, that would leave the manifold for you.

Yes, they sell directly. Ms. Cindy will sell you individual parts or tell you when they'll be available.

I think it's worth it. Might upgrade the engine some day as it tires.

You seem to have a 81.5 mm bore which requires 81.5 mm pistons (pistons measure smaller than the intended bore. Clearance of 0.0045" is good if using stock or ProX pistons.

All nozzles have/ need those guides until some expert in fluid dynamics decides to remove them. The 2008-up nozzle pictured in post 2 and below does too. You may just want to go with your green 61x nozzle.+

http://partsfinder.onlinemicrofiche.com/riva_normal/showmodel.asp?Type=13&make=yamahapwc&a=48&b=10&c=0&d=1996%20WAVE%20RAIDER%20700%20PROPULSION%20SYSTEM%20-%20EXTERNAL Is this what you bought? The steering nozzle is different for this set-up. If you don't need/ want trim, you may have to get a...

Before you take the ebox apart , I suggest you increase the bat voltage from 11.8 -which means 80% discharged- to at least somewhere in the twelves. For an easy test, you might consider using jumper cables hooked to your vehicle. If it cranks then..... you've found the problem.

And while you're on youtube, look up "peel ply", a release cloth more practical than plastic- been enjoying that since before the internet came to be.

Like Christian_83 says: use epoxy- don't even think about using polyester resin! You have to have a dry (!!!!) surface, grease free and roughed up with the coarsest sand paper available (maybe 36 grit). That way you attain a mechanical bond, a chemical bond is only possible while the epoxy is...

They are not usually even needed. Gaskets are most often reuseable. Make sure to clean the nylon "sock" inside on the fuel pump side and by all means replace your fuel filter- that might just be your problem.

Look at the centre rod journal, are both thrust washers still there? That sort of failure seems to show on the piston....

New in the box, seal intact, MSD enhancer. $290 shipped within CONUS, if you're a friend or long lost relative, otherwise plus PP fee.

Lerott, here is a link to the Zeeltronic mentioned by Christian: http://x-h2o.com/index.php?threads/dyi-total-loss-or-msd-tl-upgrade-box-270usd.188177/#post-1968884

I have 3 of these: They are made in Japon, just like the Yamaha bendix (probably by the same manufacturer), they certainly look identical- no aftermarket things here- they are used on Arctic Cat, Tiger Shark, Monte Carlo and other Polaris.- I could take a pic. of one unwrapped. $140 each plus...

http://www.x-h2o.com/index.php?threads/diy-total-loss-on-a-budget.166929/ comme ca peut etre?

still available

B1 Blasters had dbl. row bearings in the mid haft housing- SJ's had sgl row.

That is strange indeed. The Solas 144 pumps I've used have the drive shaft potruding about 5/16" less - not more. That's because the housing area against which the front bearing is located is thicker than oem. Jetmaniac has even made longer drive shafts for that purpose, so there would be better...

Seals should be deeper than flush- hard to do unless you had installed them first. It's ok to run without the spacer. Racers used to do that all the time to get the imp closer to the vanes.

They are not available separately but are part of 64X-W0004-00-00 fiberglass reed set ($54 retail I think)