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I hope those control boxes pictured in post #10 come with wiring diagrams!

Take a 3/8 coarse bastard (that's a file) or a grinding burr and elongate the holes in the red. nozzle slightly.

it's quick, inexpensive and the piece of hose can be a lot shorter. I just made it that long for rigidity . That NGK thingy should be supported or fastened somehow, these wire dance around a lot at low rpm.

Almost time for yearly bump

Used to do that a lot back in the Kaw 650 days. Wire core would fracture (work harden from vibration) a few inches from the spark plug boot. I would take a new piece of wire and crimp it -using an ordinary wire connector- onto the existing wire coming from the coil. Then I would apply a liberal...

The op could ship it FedEx- no cumber, no some.......

here's the link: https://www.mcmaster.com/#6208K529

I've been using these high priced couplers for 25 years. Still need to drill them out from 5/16" to 8mm (easily done hand held) and also change the 2 crappy socket head cap crews for ss ones. Expensive but very reliable.

Those ohm readings are good, however the "ht" coil might still be bad- I have had that happen before...... Also, you might check the brown wire to ground ac voltage while cranking, should be about 20-30 V AC depending on cranking speed. A malfunctioning start / stop switch could also cause a...

Partial quote from above: 1. Removing (4) single bolts that attach the motor mounting bracket (or bedplate I suppose) to the rubber isolator mounts. During this process, the left rear (as referenced from standing on the ski) rubber part of the mount spun off from the hull side of the mount. So...

The old fashioned way- still used on automotive aluminum panels prior to painting- is to use Alumaprep (phosphoric acid) followed with a conversion coating. Works well, lasts a long time........

Why go to all the trouble adding shims at the coupler? It's easier to take a coarse round file and elongate the bed plate holes.

Yes, still have it. Stored in a climate controlled garage, even gets to listen to radio music about 4 hours per week.

I'd use a file and get it over with (preposition at the end- is that legal? ). However, should the op have poor eyesight, he might consider the above mentioned metric thread file. Here are some pics, now you know the thread pitch:

Today is April 6 ...... not April1

The op's post begs the question: why does he want or need to replace the wear ring/ impeller housing? The ss ring never really "wears", but can swell in places due to galvanic corrosion between the aluminum housing and the ss liner (that usually shows up as an oblong spot blue/ black in color)...

Looks good! No groove or damage noted.

Yes! Unscrew the needle and look at the tapered end. A "tiny" groove might be ok

Viton 60 durometer, suitable for this application, also 75 durometer , medium hard. Search www.mcmaster.com for example