Which adhesive to bond metal to a superjet tray
- Thread starter Harbor
- Start date
Quinc
Buy a Superjet
- Location
- California
5200 for the win! Reason being it flexes without cracking.
Hmm have that too... these plates are for foot straps and have threaded holes for the strap. The side plates are 2.5 by 3.5 and the bottom tray plate is about 4 by 5.5 was thinkg maybe 5 rivits on the bottom plate and 3 on each side plate..
Would 5200 work here you think @Quinc
Quinc
Buy a Superjet
- Location
- California
I would think that it would, but you might wait to hear from someone else who has done something similar.
- Location
- Central Illinois
I would treat them like strap mounting UfO's or motor plates and glue them down with thickened epoxy. Then plan on laying a few pieces of glass over the whole plate. Remember to roughen them up and fill the holes with clay or old greased up bolts first.
Christian_83
Xscream
- Location
- Denmark
Eopxy, thickens with west systems 404 high density filler for the win, no doubt! 
- Location
- Ahwahnee, CA
#1 plexus ma320 but it's expensive, especially if you don't have the applicator gun.
# 2 g flex since you have it and I believe it's purpose is for bonding dissimilar materials.
# 2 g flex since you have it and I believe it's purpose is for bonding dissimilar materials.
Vumad
Super Hero, with a cape!
- Location
- St. Pete, FL
Pat at FGCI gave me a product called TSP and told me to use it to clean my aluminum exhaust tube before glassing it in with epoxy. He said aluminum begins oxidating immediately after sanding even if you sand right before your layup.
This was a few years ago so sorry if any of that information is inaccurate.
This was a few years ago so sorry if any of that information is inaccurate.
- Location
- Northern michigan
When bonding aluminum there is a trick the G brothers came up with to avoid oxidation. First sand with 80grit immediately coat it with epoxy , then sand again with the 80grit applying resin as you go . This encapsulates the aluminum and does not allow oxidation, yielding a perfect bond with no chemicals that could buggar up the bond down the road. This only works with aluminum.
- Location
- central florida
The old fashioned way- still used on automotive aluminum panels prior to painting- is to use Alumaprep (phosphoric acid) followed with a conversion coating. Works well, lasts a long time........
Thanks for all the replays man! Unfortuninantly my buddy has a near zero budget so turf removal and glass materials were out.... and I used scrap
Metal
Well they are done, the rivits are big and gflex the plates down, sealed off the back of the holes where I found foam. The bottom plates center 2 rows of holes are counter sunk and gflex oozed into the shape of a counter sunk screw... the holes down both sides are the strap adjustment holes.. more on bottom
Than the sides plates so you Can advance and retard top or bottom of the strap as needed...
Gonna try it Saturday, feels like kicking into a foot hold so far
Thanks for the help
Metal
Well they are done, the rivits are big and gflex the plates down, sealed off the back of the holes where I found foam. The bottom plates center 2 rows of holes are counter sunk and gflex oozed into the shape of a counter sunk screw... the holes down both sides are the strap adjustment holes.. more on bottom
Than the sides plates so you Can advance and retard top or bottom of the strap as needed...
Gonna try it Saturday, feels like kicking into a foot hold so far
Thanks for the help
Attachments
- Location
- Northern michigan
Thanks for all the replays man! Unfortuninantly my buddy has a near zero budget so turf removal and glass materials were out.... and I used scrap
Metal
Well they are done, the rivits are big and gflex the plates down, sealed off the back of the holes where I found foam. The bottom plates center 2 rows of holes are counter sunk and gflex oozed into the shape of a counter sunk screw... the holes down both sides are the strap adjustment holes.. more on bottom
Than the sides plates so you Can advance and retard top or bottom of the strap as needed...
Gonna try it Saturday, feels like kicking into a foot hold so far
Thanks for the help
- Location
- Northern michigan
Looks great. Nicely done.
Thank you.. nerve racking trying to get the over all position correct so his feet are in the correct spot
Eopxy, thickens with west systems 404 high density filler for the win, no doubt!
It would work but not as good as Gflex in this application. Gflex is designed specifically to bond and flex which aids in the durability of bonding dissimiliar (different) materials.
Looks good Harbor. Only suggestion if you were to do something similiar again is to drill extra holes for the glue to flow through to aid in bonding strength.
Christian_83
Xscream
- Location
- Denmark
I know for a fact, that one of the biggest players in the jetski AM game, uses this method, 2 K epoxy mixed with West systems 404 High density filler, to bond hull halves, glue in inserts and glue in engine mounts
- Location
- Northern michigan
Gflex has a modulus of elasticity of 150,000. And 105 resin is at 450,000 so how is gflex stronger.
- Location
- Northern michigan
Gflex was goven its name because it gave biilders the fleabilty to mix very small amounts of resin accuractly, not because its flexable. They admit that it is inferior in its strength but has its place for making quick onsite repairs. I have used there products for many years. And the G brothers always back up there products with extensive lab testing , which they share freely. Anytime I have questions there has always been a shop engineer, able to take time and answer my questions. When I have stopped by the shop and met the brothers, it always strikes me how down to earth they are and how utterly infatuatied with boats and composites they are. Even in there advanced years they are still decades ahead of others in there designs.
I did not mean to imply that the material itself is stronger, but may have a stronger lasting bond in this application due to its flexibility. A material which is stronger but stiffer may experience cracking and bond failure due to the different materials flexing at different rates.
I am not a materials engineer, just saying what has worked in our experience and based on reading their application materials. I am sure both would work just fine.
From West:
"With a modulus of elasticity of 150,000 PSI, it is a bit more flexible than standard epoxies and polyester, but much stiffer than adhesive sealants. This gives G/flex the ability to make structural bonds that can absorb the stress of expansion, contraction, shock, and vibration. It is ideal for bonding dissimilar materials."
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