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This often happened. Check for continuity between spark plug boots-(2-3K). Wires will fracture inside near plugs from vibration.

The splines look fine- even perfect! Mid shaft is not an old small dia. one as mentioned earlier but a late model aftermarket- don't know what kind of coupler you acquired that wont fit.- could you take pics of both the engine coupler half as well as the new coupler?

Yamaha just seems to sell it with the bendix- yes, it fits on the rear, next to the bushing in the crankcase. It's a "M12 x 24 x 1mm (thin) steel flatwasher.

Those rubber seals will certainly be ruined! The bushings not so much.

You can just move the engine forward about 4 inches, then pull off the midshaft assy.

Harbor, the man in the video is a plumber......... You only need lots of layers of tape if trying to build up the threads to keep the fitting from bottoming out before it seals- otherwise a couple might/ will do.

Op= original poster Yes, to all. Since you seem to be new to this, consider taking a close up picture of the drive shaft splines that stick out through the bulkhead-before you wipe it off- and post it here.

The op's picture shows what appears to be a 62T midshaft housing as used in a rn Superjet. The coupler looks weird, hopefully it's not an early square nose shaft which has a smaller diameter in the threaded area. Most of those were discarded when Yamaha furnished upgrade kits in the early nineties.

This is more commonly used on pipe threads. You can use lots of layers, no problem-that way the fitting will tighten before the threads bottom out. There maybe an issue with British pipe threads being different- I don't remember- but the teflon thread tape should cure that.

Yes, that would be easier, but a bit pricey. To just change the jaw coupler you would need to hold the shaft with a pipewrench (gruesome), or a tool. Heating the aluminum coupler slightly would help in removal.

You need to remove the mid shaft housing assy. to replace those o rings. You'll probably find dry, worn (hopefully still useable) splines. Just the coupler half needs to be replaced- which is not easy.

The op needs to remove the housing- pry it off, besides the 3 cap screws there's just rtv holding it. The 2 small o rings at the other end of the midshaft (on the inside near the end) are likely worn out and no longer sealing against the pump shaft. The water has already washed out all (!) the...

You could ohm the resistance: primary black to orange, secondary = output post to ground. That does not help necessarily, I would use "couch" coils as suggested in post #3.

No, it is not serviceable. However, I've brought several back to life that just had corroded connectors!

What brand/type of TL? Going by your description, I'd say the capacitors in the electronic control unit tired. Let's hope not, we don't want it to be the most expensive part of your set up.

https://www.amazon.com/BEARING-KAWASAKI-13091-3730-13280-3730-13280-3756/dp/B0118P31JM

However, a girdled head would be indicated whilst "pushing the limit".

Pull the cylinder- it has to come off anyway- crank pin bearing might have failed and the thrust washer pieces cause damage like that.

Shifty mod relay refers to a latching relay used to turn the ignition control unit on/off.

Most prefer the Ltd chamber- it's better for low end/acceleration. The Mod pipe is about 1.5" shorter- better for top speed and racing. (nobody races anymore).