To what are each of your screws set?
I have to respectfully disagree with Art and FP, but they bury me in credentials.
Talk about bad cooling problems!!!
- Thread starter FLY6584
- Start date
To what are each of your screws set?
I have to respectfully disagree with Art and FP, but they bury me in credentials.
- Location
- Clearwater, FL
They are the stock settings. I think the bottom is open like a turn and a half and the middle and top screws are closed.
The funny thing is that I rode all day last Sunday with no problems. I guess maybe it just took time to weaken the hose and pop it off subsequently causing the rest of the hoses to melt with no water going to the headpipe.
- Location
- Cleveland Ohio
I use air compressor hose... Nothing clear for water, ever. It will eventually fail or melt or worse. :banghead: It will work, unless you have a problem, then it will melt quickly.
You probably got a shell stuck in there and then it overheated and melted like velveeta.
You probably got a shell stuck in there and then it overheated and melted like velveeta.
Big Kahuna
Administrator
- Location
- Tuscaloosa, AL
I doubt your line was the problem, I have had hose clamps that would not stay tightened, just replaced and it stopped.
- Location
- Clearwater, FL
I can understand why the lines on the pipe would be melted after the hose from the cylinder to the headpipe popped off, but why would the actual line from the cylinder to the headpipe be very soft and melted.
The lines went from very hard and rigid to very soft and squishy.
It's because you didn't feed to the bottom and subsequently the top, which never had water build in it, superheated and melted the lines. :wall:
Mike W
Infidel
- Location
- North Florida
I have used the braided water line from Home Depot for a couple years now with no problems. Just make sure to snug them down with hose clamps but dont over tighten.
- Location
- Clearwater, FL
Well after taking more hoses off and inspecting them I found a major clog.
It was in the T between the headpipe and stinger. The only part of the T that was clogged was the part that went to the bypass. The part of the T that went to the stinger was fine so the stinger was getting water.
I guess this could explain why my headpipe heated up and caused the hose that was connected to it from the cylinder head to melt and pop off.
See picture below:
It was in the T between the headpipe and stinger. The only part of the T that was clogged was the part that went to the bypass. The part of the T that went to the stinger was fine so the stinger was getting water.
I guess this could explain why my headpipe heated up and caused the hose that was connected to it from the cylinder head to melt and pop off.
See picture below:
Attachments
Waste Land
Non Multa Sed Multum
- Location
- Florence, AL
Works fine....my entire ski is plumbed with it
Waste Land
Non Multa Sed Multum
- Location
- Florence, AL
Agreeded...I saw a big diff in cooling when i switched to this. Oriingally fed the top and my overboard water was never really hot....switched tot his method and the water became hotter...which to me says its relieving more heat fromt he engine
Big Kahuna
Administrator
- Location
- Tuscaloosa, AL
bzzzzzzzzzzzzz. eh, nope!!!!!!!!!!!
if that was the case, all the water would have just passed into the stinger, may have loaded the waterbox more but not gonna contribute to the overheating...........
- Location
- Clearwater, FL
but with a 3mil restrictor and FCV before the stinger it definitely would have restricted the flow more causing it to heat up and weaken the hose.
Big Kahuna
Administrator
- Location
- Tuscaloosa, AL
thought it was a 4mm restrictor, but either way, dont think that would be the cause, but who knows at this point unless you want to fix the hoses, run it again and see what happens. also, if you cooling line from your head to pipe comes off, the hot gasses from the pipe can work back into the hoses at the stinger fitting, heating them up also since no water is being injected at that point!
- Location
- Clearwater, FL
Yeah I'm definitely replacing all of the hoses. As long as I can keep them clear I shouldn't have a problem with cooling.
I think I actually have too much cooling. I probably should be running single cooling instead of dual cooling, but I like having the added security of two lines coming from the pump.
- Location
- Clearwater, FL
I'm running a 3 mil between the FCV and Stinger and 4mils on the bypass for Winter
and
then I'll run a 4 mil on the bypass from the T, no restrictor on the bypass from the head and a 4mil between the FCV and stinger in the summer.
I figure thats a pretty good starting point. A friend of mine (#0) actually designed a T fitting with a digital temperature sensor that fits into each of the pissers and transmits the data to a guage so you can determine what kind of temps you are running out of each of your pissers. It's pretty cool.
SUPERTUNE
Race Gas Rules
- Location
- Clearwater Fl.
Idok
F1pro
- Location
- Nations oldest muthaF+++kin city
I was talking to royal flush not too long ago about cooling lines...he was using some air compressor hose with a white lining on the inside of it...
he said it got VERY soft and melted....I always use the yellow/orange a/c hose from depot which has a black core...never had a problem there....
this reminds me though...before riding tomororw I have to pull my pump and clear out the clogged water fitting of coquina shell!
he said it got VERY soft and melted....I always use the yellow/orange a/c hose from depot which has a black core...never had a problem there....
this reminds me though...before riding tomororw I have to pull my pump and clear out the clogged water fitting of coquina shell!
RoyalFlush@PCB
Shootin' The Crap
- Location
- PCB
Yep. :banghead: I was going to comment on this in this thread, but you beat me to it. I wanted blue hose, so I bought some from Lowe's and did not think twice about installing it. Once it became soft, it tended to flatten out and hindered flow. I had to re-plumb the entire cooling system, which is not "easy" when the engine is installed.