where can I get this flow valve (pic)

[DaUpJetSkier]

I take it you adjust the flow by turning the nob? Where can I get something like that, hardware store? or more custom?

 

[DaUpJetSkier]

btw quick question, would it hurt anything using two fuel filters vs one?

 

[HBCwatercraft]

Id be nervous useing those valves,more things for u to play with..hence scewing up,all the pro motors iv seen dont have them?

 

[oxnard111]

i would use one... nothing to them really. I am planning on it very soon.

that valve is made by JetWorks

http://www.jetworks.net/

the one you are looking for is called the PRO

www.jet-world.com has a pretty good price on them.

 

[stanton]

http://watcon.com/Catalog_Pages/Flow_Control_Valves.htm
i have the standard one and it definetly made a difference. i hooked it up before the pisser and i can see the flow get turned off and on. if it gets stuck ill know.

 

[Scraggly]

look at the second vertical water line in the pic. i think he is talking about that knob/valve??

my guess is that its used for water restriction. looks like he has at least 3 overboard??

 

[HBCwatercraft]

are we talking about the water box valve ir the ones comeing off the head with the black knobs?Im looking at the ones w/black knobs.Iv seen peeps useing the one for the stinger but not the head lines.

 

[stanton]

look at the second vertical water line in the pic. i think he is talking about that knob/valve??

my guess is that its used for water restriction. looks like he has at least 3 overboard??

looks like its setup for handwarmers

 

[#ZERO]

Did you notice the temperature strip tapes on the cylinder head? :scratchchin:

Here's a grey PVC adjustable needle valve from McMaster part number 7781K33 for $16.71

 

[Dustin Mustangs]

I also have a couple similar ones listed in that mcmaster thread that are like $6 a piece. I just set up my cooling system to run one before each pisser. Looks like that what this dude has going too but w 3 pisssers.

 

[Fro Diesel]

Casey, who's ski is that? It looks bad ass!:fing02:

I would like to know more on the build of that ski. Looks like no expense was spared to get er tuned right no matter what conditions. I am buying that restrictor valve when i get back from chicken bone since i ride the cold lakes then warm oceans.

Where can you get those temp strips...what temp range would you use?

 

[DaUpJetSkier]

K sorry for the confusion, Im talking about the blakc nobs to control water flow, I want to turn them closed a bit for cold water spring riding and open up as the water gets warmer and vise versa.

I have no idea how's ski it is, I got the photo last night when I ordered up some fuel and cooling line from that guy selling the stuff in the for sale section, it was on their site gallery.

 

[dbrutherford]

Those valves are made by Jet Works. It isn't the "flow control valve" that uses the spring and ball inside them. It has a knob and a nut. The knob is threaded and the more you open it up, the more water flows through. They are only like 15 bucks. Hot Products sells them.

I am going to run two seperate cooling systems. One will be for the exhaust and one will be for the engine. Well I am going to put this first things inside my engine compartment right after the water comes out of teh bulkhead. this way I can fine tune the amount of water going into my exhaust system, yet I won't cook my engine because will have its own seperate system.

DBR

 

[Dustin Mustangs]

Putting restrictions at the inlets as apposed to the outlets will not only lower system flow but also pressure. Are you doing that for a reason db? My understanding is that this is something you would normally want to avoid.

 

[Dustin Mustangs]

Oh, and I found some of those temp reading stickers at mcmaster and added them to that thread. Unfourtunatly I don't think they will work with my head because it has too rough of a finish for them to adhere to.

 

[dbrutherford]

Putting restrictions at the inlets as apposed to the outlets will not only lower system flow but also pressure. Are you doing that for a reason db? My understanding is that this is something you would normally want to avoid.

Here is my planned cooling system:

Pump will be tapped for dual cooling. Each of the two total lines will go from pump to bulkhead lines. Then:

Line #1 goes from bulk head to exhaust manifold. Then two bypass exits from head to pissers. This is the engine cooling system.

Line #2 goes from bulkhead to the Jet Works thumb screw valve. From that to the bottom of my FPP head pipe. Then a line from the top of the head pipe to a T fitting. Leg from T fitting to a pisser. Other leg of the T fitting to a spring loaded Jet Works flow control valve. Then from the Jet Works valve to the stinger fitting.

Only reason to use a thumb screw valve is to limit the water entering into the exhaust pipe. I won't need the full water pressure/flow for the exhaust cooling system. Too much water will hurt power. I won't be limiting it way down, but I will limit it some. I will have to find the right spot to set the thumb screw valve.

But the engine will need constant cool flowing water to keep it running without problems. I don't believe in all the cold seize myths. Plus on a stock engine, it won't be a problem.

Sound ok to you? Any other time I ran dual cooling I just ran both lines to the exhaust manifold. Then I put an extra pisser off the head. The rest of the water flow was routed like stock.


PS I think Watcon has those stickers. Not a bad idea for tuning purposes. I thought of getting one of those infrared thermoters you shoot the lazer from type.

 

[Dustin Mustangs]

There certainly are a number of ways to plumb a cooling system, and this is more or less one of the two seen most often. Like I said above, the one thing you have planned that seems to be out of the norm is restricting the system for proper flow before the engine/pipe as apposed to after.

These valves will not only lower flow but also pressure. Put them before the engine/pipe and now they will see lower pressure when flow is reduced. Put them after the engine/pipe and they see full pressure regardless of flow. I'm not sure how important pressure is for the engine, but the water injection screws on the fpp head pipe you're gonna run need it. They would dribble water into the pipe as apposed to spraying a fine mist in an extreme scenario. Certainly not what fp intended. Whether or not you will ever need to restrict the lines enough that this will become an issue is another matter, but unless you are putting them before the engine/pipe for a reason you may want to reconsider. Just some food for thought I guess...

 

[dbrutherford]

Just using one before the pipe. My theory is if I didn't, then the exhaust would be flooded with water. I won't choke the engine water at all.