Mike W
Infidel
- Location
- North Florida
Either that or a .20 cent nylon spacer from a hardware store...:biggrin:
U Guys R Gonna Kill Me
- Thread starter GIL
- Start date
Either that or a .20 cent nylon spacer from a hardware store...:biggrin:
- Location
- Clearwater, FL
Thats exactly how I have my lines run and I'm running 3mil restrictors at each bypass and before the stinger along with the FCV.
I checked my temps at the lake a couple of days ago and with 70F water temps I was running the following temps:
102F out of the pisser from the Head
and
108F out of the pisser from the Headpipe
I bought the Jetworks interchangeable restrictors that comes with a 2,3,and 4mil restrictor so I that I can quickly change the restrictors out. I would highly recommend them. I think they're about $20 a piece. Definitely not the cheap route, but the most convenient route in my opinion.
I might go a little smaller on my restrictors to try and get the temp to about 120F, but I haven't really had time to mess with it and test it.
Idok
F1pro
- Location
- Nations oldest muthaF+++kin city
Yo Gil...noone hates ya man, but think about it this way...
the X has only been around a year....i bet a single search at the other site would produce the most commont routing for Bpipe cooling...
that way you'd have your info right off the bat......
the X has only been around a year....i bet a single search at the other site would produce the most commont routing for Bpipe cooling...
that way you'd have your info right off the bat......
Remember our previous discussion? You said you were running it off the head to the TOP of the pipe because Art at Jetworks and Factory Pipe preferred that way.
http://www.x-h2o.com/threads/10157
What gives? And where are my props?
- Location
- Clearwater, FL
Actually thats what I had originally done, but when I had to redo my cooling lines I had a buddy come over and give me a hand. While I was away from the garage he rerouted the line from the head to the bottom of the headpipe and by the time I got back it was too late to change it. I really didn't care though. I honestly think it probably doesn't make much difference either way.
It runs awesome now and thats the only thing that matters.:biggthumpup:
Big Kahuna
Administrator
- Location
- Tuscaloosa, AL
I guess we just need to turn off the reply function and just let everybody search for whatever they need...
:banghead: :banghead: :banghead: :banghead: :banghead:
Merry Christmas everyone.
Idok
F1pro
- Location
- Nations oldest muthaF+++kin city
Merry Xmas as well!
I'd like to know a couple of things as well.....
#1 whats the best pipe and prop for my superjet? :skull2:
:sneaky:
running the line out of the head to the bottom of the headpipe, vs the top, results in no trapped air in the headpipe.
Big Kahuna
Administrator
- Location
- Tuscaloosa, AL
Well in my opinion, if you want strong bottom end with incredible throttle respose then go with the B Pipe with say a 13-16 Skat swirl prop.
If you want just a good overall power and like to go fast, then get a Type 4 Pipe with a 14-20 pitch swirl prop.......
If you really want arm wrenching power, get your motor ported, run a Type 9 with a Skat Mag Pump with say a 15-21 pitch prop.........
:arms: :arms: :arms: :arms: :arms: :arms:
GIL
Power In The Hands Of Few
- Location
- Cullman AL
pipe is in and plumbed, primer is in and plumbed, stubby cone is in, shorty plate is on, and left side of tray is turfed-what a beyotch-hats off to Brian bein able to turf sides w/one piece-took me 2 and 1/2 hours to turf left side of tray w/1 piece of turf. After the rest of my Blowsion order comes in next Christmas-1/2 the stuff got placed on back order-I'll be done.
Idok
F1pro
- Location
- Nations oldest muthaF+++kin city