total loss vs. enhancer

[Pablo]

-Can you put the TL in a box ?
- Are there charging TL systems ?

I'll bet you could get a TL brain in an ebox. Prolly stick the relay in there or the coil, but not both. Waternut has expressed ideas of fabbing a clear, polycarbonate box with o'ring type seal for a TL setup. This would make it free and clear in salt...except for any connections you make downstream. I'd imagine it could be done without too much hassle.

Charging and TL are at opposite ends of the spectrum. I've never heard of such a wonderful, magnificent beast that provides TL programmability, hot spark, bottom end punch AAAAAND charges the battery as well. I'll ask Santa for one this Christmas.

 

[Matt_E]

-Can you put the TL in a box ?
- Are there charging TL systems ?

By definition, TOTAL LOSS means that no energy goes to charging the battery.

 

[Waternut]

-Can you put the TL in a box ?
- Are there charging TL systems ?

The phrase "total loss" means a system that doesn't charge/constantly depletes the battery.

Incorporate a solar cell into your pole or on your trailer/dock. It won't really charge the battery enough to make a difference while you're riding but those couple days during the week when you don't ride, you battery will have a chance to restore itself. You battery will be fine for at least two days anyway.

 

[orangefinger]

So it's box and trickle charger .
-how do you program it , for example for freestyle is there
a template ?

 

[Matt_E]

The proper ignition curve for your motor depends on the motor setup.
It's best to have the motor builder determine a curve that works best with his setup.

 

[Waternut]

So it's box and trickle charger .
-how do you program it , for example for freestyle is there
a template ?

Well it's a box. You supply the charger. On the digital models, you program it with dip switches on the back. You can customize static timing, rev limiter, a specific rpm to start retarding the timing, and how much you want to retard the timing over time. The most power comes from advancing the timing but at high rpms, you need to retard the timing so you don't destroy the engine. There are some really good threads on here about timing.

The proper ignition curve for your motor depends on the motor setup.
It's best to have the motor builder determine a curve that works best with his setup.

I don't know if the timing curve is so critical that an engine builder would need to customize the curve specifically for each boat unless you want to run right on the ragged edge.

 

[Matt_E]

Porting, compression, pipe setup, jetting, reeds, cooling setup, timing curve all work together as a package.
Once you have a whole package built by someone who knows what their doing, you'll know what I am talking about.

 

[NVJAY775]

So about how many hours are you guys getting without recharging? I imagine this will also depend on battery, but just curious.

Thanks
Jay

 

[NVJAY775]

Forgot to subscribe.

 

[McDog]

A few days worth of riding with a jetworks battery.

 

[Waternut]

I usually drain about 8-10 gallons of gas during a weekend and the battery goes strong the whole time. I also run an 800gph bilge pump 100% of the time. Not sure how much longer a battery will last but that's plenty of time for me.

 

[Matt_E]

When I still had MSD Dual Channel TL, I got at least 3-4 tanks of riding out of a battery, and that was with dual bilges running at all times.

 

[masterblaster]

well there are other things that can go wrong,but if wired good with weatherpack or better connectors and a good ground,they are mostly good other than the coils,this is the part you cant control unless you switch out to the lower output kawi coils. I dont think its really a big deal to have the tl sealed as long as you rinse it and wd40 it after a ocean ride

 

[GIL]

Iv'e kept my 2cents on the d/l till now.

There is no comparing MSD t/l to a MSD enhancer and a stk or lightened stk flywheel.

As for reliability?
INSTALL the stuff properly with all conn soldered, adhesive lined heat shrink, weatherpack connectors filled w/dielectric grease, good coating of dl grease on ground stud and starter grounds, good grounds, clean wire routing where it can't get pinched and short crap out and you will be fine.
I go 3 day of riding on a single charge using Jetworks batteries. I have 2 batteries for my one ski so it will not ever be an issue if one dies at the lake.

 

[masterblaster]

gil,Ive heard enough people say this that I want to try Tl out since I got one cheap with a new motor setup. Seems most everyone that uses them is a primary fresh lake rider with occasional use in the ocean.Even the team scream boats are primary fresh water boats,but they always seem to run 100% when I see them in the ocean.The interesting thing will be to see how tl holds up in a junkie ski that is in the salt more times a yr than alot of guys use their boat in salt and fresh the whole time they own it.

 

[GIL]

gil,Ive heard enough people say this that I want to try Tl out since I got one cheap with a new motor setup. Seems most everyone that uses them is a primary fresh lake rider with occasional use in the ocean.Even the team scream boats are primary fresh water boats,but they always seem to run 100% when I see them in the ocean.The interesting thing will be to see how tl holds up in a junkie ski that is in the salt more times a yr than alot of guys use their boat in salt and fresh the whole time they own it.

IMO-if t/l is setup properly and runs good in saltwater 2 times in a row-it should run good in saltwater from now on.

IF I rode in s/w all the time I would def keep all componets coated at all times and relocate my ground from the rear of the starter to some place more accessible/visable so that I could routinely clean and grease the main ground location. Like anything-ground is key.

 

[masterblaster]

yea I agree,the key is gettin it to work once,much less twice. where are most Tl grounded too if not the starter,I was thinking of running the main ground to the starter and a smaller 8 gauge safty ground to someplace higher on the motor

 

[GIL]

yea I agree,the key is gettin it to work once,much less twice. where are most Tl grounded too if not the starter,I was thinking of running the main ground to the starter and a smaller 8 gauge safty ground to someplace higher on the motor

Iv'e seen them grounded at the ex or intake manifold. I would ground at the ex manifold if I was running s/w all the time.

 

[Waternut]

I run a dedicated wire from the brain straight to the battery...soldered and shrink wrapped, no quick connectors. I've found that if you ground it to the engine and the negative cable isn't up to par, you'll have major problems. Plus you'll know immediately if your negative wire is getting beat up or corroded.

 

[Idok]

yea I agree,the key is gettin it to work once,much less twice. where are most Tl grounded too if not the starter,I was thinking of running the main ground to the starter and a smaller 8 gauge safty ground to someplace higher on the motor

Iv'e seen them grounded at the ex or intake manifold. I would ground at the ex manifold if I was running s/w all the time.

I dont run TL, but keep my grounds visible at all times...

most of the time the bolt hole right above the exhaust manifold at the front of the cylinder if very convenient..

on my X motor, I have it grounded to the intake manifold (sorry chuck :27: and booted so it gets checked frequently....




cant wait to hear matt's review on the ATP system, love the fact it fits in the stock Ebox.....I wonder how many units they have out there in the UK???