Start/Stop switch sealing?

[Waternut]

I'm determined to not repeat last years Daytona experience of 15 hours wrenching on ski's and riding for 10 minutes. I've made and tested a sealed box for my total loss system but there is still one more point of concern...the start/stop switch.

Last year my start/stop switch (in addition to many other things) was causing problems with the ski in the salt. I've got a different switch this year but I'm curious if there is anyway to ensure that thing is perfectly sealed and won't screw up? The plan is to bring a spare but would filling each switch with dielectric grease work? I'm even debating filling the housing with silicone to help pot it.

I'm sure most of the surf guys will think all this is overkill but last year wasn't much fun for me so if overkill will prevent problems, I'm all for it.

 

[WaveDemon]

yamaha switches rarely have problems if there in OK or better shape. They are not waterproof by design.

 

[JetManiac]

There is no such thing as overkill in the surf!!

Did your old s/s switch have damage to the rubber boots over the switches?
In my experience this is where most switch problems begin, otherwise they are pretty reliable.

Another big saltwater riding issue is your coil wires and boots being in excellent condition and a coat of dielectric grease is good insurance against spark leakage.

 

[JetManiac]

yamaha switches rarely have problems if there in OK or better shape. They are not waterproof by design.

did you mean they are waterproof by design?

 

[WaveDemon]

did you mean they are waterproof by design?

no I mean not waterproof. I'm talking about the housing not each internal switch.

 

[Waternut]

There is no such thing as overkill in the surf!!

Did your old s/s switch have damage to the rubber boots over the switches?
In my experience this is where most switch problems begin, otherwise they are pretty reliable.

Another big saltwater riding issue is your coil wires and boots being in excellent condition and a coat of dielectric grease is good insurance against spark leakage.

The old switch probably did have seal problems. It wasn't a yamaha switch either and it's in some scrap yard by now. I'll check the seals to see if there is any cracking. If they are cracked is there a place to get them replaced?

 

[Matt_E]

If it is important to you not to wrench for hours on the beach, consider buying a new OEM switch or having one rebuilt by someone who knows what they're doing.

 

[Woody]

*cough* jetskisolutions *cough**cough*

http://www.jetskisolutions.com/p16_yamaha_start_stop_switch_remanufacture.html

 

[QuickMick]

If it is important to you not to wrench for hours on the beach, consider buying a new OEM switch or having one rebuilt by someone who knows what they're doing.[/QUOTE]

poser

 

[Matt_E]

Hint: That's not me I am referring to.

 

[WaveDemon]

Hint: what are you talking about?

 

[JetManiac]

The old switch probably did have seal problems. It wasn't a yamaha switch either and it's in some scrap yard by now. I'll check the seals to see if there is any cracking. If they are cracked is there a place to get them replaced?

I don't think you can buy the rubber seals separately, but if they are cracked then you need to rebuild or replace like Matt E said.

I find the yamaha switches to be pretty reliable.

 

[Idok]

coils and s/s switches are fail...plain and simple, the salt will test it

there are only a few parts on a ski I insist on being new when replaced....this is one of them

 

[SUPERTUNE]

If it is important to you not to wrench for hours on the beach, consider buying a new OEM switch or having one rebuilt by someone who knows what they're doing.

Just use a new OEM one from Yamaha, Best way to go!

 

[WAB]

Just bring a little extra $$ and buy a used minty one off jetmaniac if yours craps out.

 

[Waternut]

I tested both out in a sink of salt water and now that I'm sitting at work am thinking I didn't drain that salt water from the stainless sink...oops. The one I had installed crapped out after a few button pushes but the other one was solid. I know which one I'll be installing prior to Daytona... The one that crapped out did have a small crack in the lanyard switch though so I'm sure that's why.