Snowed in, bored enough to shorten stock turnplate

Mouthfulloflake

ISJWTA member #2
Location
NW Arkansas
I finally got around to this...

its solid just bolted, But I will likely weld it also.

thats my engine hoist jack handle in there now... hehe...

I have to order some aluminum tubing.
does any one know what wall thickness typical straight bars are?

0.125? T6 aluminum? or T8?
 

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RoyalFlush@PCB

Shootin' The Crap
Location
PCB
I guess you won't be needing my plate now, will you?!? :biggrin:

How much farther forward did that put you from stock?
 

Mouthfulloflake

ISJWTA member #2
Location
NW Arkansas
I just went ahead and used my only plate, I figured, im not riding right now... why not?

if it breaks, Ill buy yours, or start the hunt over.

It is likely not as strong as stock. but IM sort of thinking the turnplate has never been the weak link anyway...

its probably 2 inches forward of the stock position.

if I can figure out the wall thickness and alloy of aluminum for straight bars, I will likely buy enough to make at least a few sets of bars...

the umi freestyle bars I have are 26 inches wide, I was thinking closet to 30 inches...

im going to do some experiementing with length when it warms up.




Royal Flush said:
I guess you won't be needing my plate now, will you?!? :biggrin:

How much farther forward did that put you from stock?
 
hey let me know if you order some aluminum for the bars ill probally buy a set.if you get the size ill check with my friend to see what kind of deal he can get on it.he does custom fabrications.
 

IceRocket1286

Site Supporter
Location
Metro Detroit
why would you weld it, and what is their to weld? just drill and tap your 4 bolt holes, and use the top piece of the clamps, you dont need to weld the bottom piece to the plate
 

Mouthfulloflake

ISJWTA member #2
Location
NW Arkansas
of course I dont HAVE to weld it.

Ill get longer bolts, go up thru the bottom and use them as studs, then nuts and washers on the top.

welding it will just ad some extra security.

or I may not weld it at all, it just depends on how motivated I get...


oh... I see what you are saying now, maybe it isnt clear from my pics, I reused both sides of the bar clamp ( top and bottom) if you only used one or the other it wold be easy to overtighten the bolt and break the brittle clamp.

plus, the area the clamps are sitting is lower than the side ribs of the turnplate, it would take even MORE grinding to lower that down, and you are still faced with the top clamp being in a bind ( breaking)

I thought of the same thing, but after careful consideration, I made it differently, and better.






IceRocket1286 said:
why would you weld it, and what is their to weld? just drill and tap your 4 bolt holes, and use the top piece of the clamps, you dont need to weld the bottom piece to the plate
 
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romack991

homebrewed
Location
Warsaw, IN
and i see its on a round pole. squares gonna be changin quite a bit!


cybermob just drilled more holes in his plate and moved his clamps and bars forward. not the prettiest but i dont think he ever had any problems. i'd post a pic but i dont think i have one. of close up.
 

Mouthfulloflake

ISJWTA member #2
Location
NW Arkansas
Id like to see those pics Romack!

yeah I considered that too...
I figured Id try this, if it doesnt work, I ll try something else... ive got snow and ice on the ground, I figure ive got plenty of R&D time.




romack991 said:
and i see its on a round pole. squares gonna be changin quite a bit!


cybermob just drilled more holes in his plate and moved his clamps and bars forward. not the prettiest but i dont think he ever had any problems. i'd post a pic but i dont think i have one. of close up.
 

Mouthfulloflake

ISJWTA member #2
Location
NW Arkansas
I considered that as well, and even had a drum sanding thing ready to cut some 7/8 inch arcs on either side, and then realised that the bolts would be in shear that way, and the load would break the clamp.

putting the bottom of the clamp underneath, allows you to tighten the bolts, use them in tension as they were designed, and still have the bars solidly mounted.

they would work without all that im sure, But I tend to way overbuild stuff...

well, I over build stuff made of metal at least.

:headbang:



IceRocket1286 said:
Ah, I understand. I'd grind down the sides of the plate, it'd only be a little bit, but whatever floats your boat! eerrrrr jet ski!
 

Mouthfulloflake

ISJWTA member #2
Location
NW Arkansas
ok, here are some mocked pics of the short turnplate, coupled with the shortened pole...

I think this is SHORT.

i cant wait to ride it like this
 

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RoyalFlush@PCB

Shootin' The Crap
Location
PCB
Mouthfulloflake said:
ok, here are some mocked pics of the short turnplate, coupled with the shortened pole...

I think this is SHORT.

i cant wait to ride it like this

Looking Good!!!

What's your take on the total length removed---how much overall?

Also, what bracket are you running?
 

romack991

homebrewed
Location
Warsaw, IN
that is short. throw a hydro turf pole pad under the pole and it will sit very close to flush with the ski. (or just a couple layers of turf if you have extra laying around.

heres mine for comparison. -3 round pole, stock steering, 4deg bars, trimmed stock pole pad


lookin good mouth.

btw, with the bar mounts moved closer to the center, and longer bars. your increasing the stress on em. just get thick enough tubing.
 

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Mouthfulloflake

ISJWTA member #2
Location
NW Arkansas
I think the pole is -3.5 or so... and the turnplate is nearly -2 ...
so - 5 inches plus....??? ( im guessing...)

no bracket yet, just not that far along yet.

it is SHORT.

I stood in the foot holds and grabbed the pole...

its going to be nose to the ski, or lean forward... on the water.
I think it will be cool.

:headbang:


Royal Flush said:
Looking Good!!!

What's your take on the total length removed---how much overall?

Also, what bracket are you running?
 

Mouthfulloflake

ISJWTA member #2
Location
NW Arkansas
I figured that, the UMI bars I have look to be 0.125 inch thick or less, I figure Ill get that thick at least, and possibly even fill the bars with epoxy, that should ad to the rigidity..

or maybe even use stainless tube... hmmm.. ive been pricing aluminum and stainless tubing, as well as looking up the properties of various alloys of metal.



romack991 said:
btw, with the bar mounts moved closer to the center, and longer bars. your increasing the stress on em. just get thick enough tubing.
 
thats sweet! tricky had a picture awhile back of a shortened stocker.....


what I want to know is, why hasnt anyone cut and welded a std. UMI plate?? i measure it awhile back and it looks as if it'd take about a 1.75" chunk out of the middle.....

its handlepole mania I guess..this weekend I just mounted up a complete x metal steering system to my new fx-1 pole...
i chopped the fx pole down by 1.5", and the stock fx pole is the same as a SJ -2..

so, as compared to a stock SJ pole is -6 total
 

wildman326

Who else?
Location
Kansas
That is so awesome!!!

I love it!

Please set me know if you find some straight bar stock . . .

Hope to send your stuff off today or tomorrow.
 

Mouthfulloflake

ISJWTA member #2
Location
NW Arkansas
Hey wildman,

cool on the stuff shipping, thanks!

Ive found the bars, they are about $22 each when all is said and done ( buying 5' lengths and cutting them down.

I wanted wider than than the UMI bars ive got, tey are 25" I was thinking more like 28" or so.
 
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