Snowed in, bored enough to shorten stock turnplate

Mouthfulloflake

Mouthfulloflake

ISJWTA member #2
Location
NW Arkansas
oh....

SS or AL

I have been pricing AL, stainless is slightly more.

I havent checked locally though yet, Im hoping that might be cheaper when shipping is figured in...

I need to call an old buddy at the local fab shop.
 
Mouthfulloflake

Mouthfulloflake

ISJWTA member #2
Location
NW Arkansas
right nowim finding 6061 T6 aluminum, 0.125 wall thickness, in 30" lengths for $24 each.

start at 30 and cut to the desired length, thats 6 inches wider than UMI bars.

Still looking though.

and of course, if we found several folks it would be cheaper.
 
C

cybermob2

naturally warming water
welding? whats that?

ya lol i got bored one day with my gangly long stock pole and turn plate, and got messy.

drilled two new holes whatever the bracket bolt spacing is farther forward, tapped, and bolted together.

not pretty, but free. i didn't even use the bottoms of the brackets, b/c if i remember, the plate has a cast "cradle" with which the bars rest in. its not really a critical thing, just needs to be sturdy.
 
Mouthfulloflake

Mouthfulloflake

ISJWTA member #2
Location
NW Arkansas
thanks madoyster,

you are right, the unwilling ness to spend my hard earned money has given me more than a few ideas, some good, some NOT so good.

:biggrin:

the bottoms sections that I cut off and reused are threaded.

I will get longer bolts, start from the bottom of the turnplate, go thru the threaded cradle, and they will stick thru far enough to act as studs, then a nut on top of the bar cap will clamp it down.

welding is likely not needed, but would be easy to do if I decide it needs to be stronger.

we discussed earlier why the bars need some type of cradle, without it the bolts are put in shear, and the design is to use them in tension.

among other reasons.

im sure it will all work though. hell a hose clamp and a 24" peice of of broom stick would work for a while!
 
wildman326

wildman326

Who else?
Location
Kansas
Matt,

What is the status on those 30" pieces of tubing? I'm interested . . . have you got some? Can you get some? Does anybody else want cut-to-length bars?

Please advise,

Wesley
 
Mouthfulloflake

Mouthfulloflake

ISJWTA member #2
Location
NW Arkansas
I picked up some tubing the other day, it is the wrong Diameter.

I planned to take the clamps with me to the shop and size it, and left without them, and got the wrong sized stuff.

So ive got nothing yet, I can just order some if you want.

Ill send you a PM.
 
accbr

accbr

addicted
Location
Lexington, KY
The UMI bars I have are 7/8" out side diameter with .150 wall. I picked up some bolts and drilled some holes in my plate today to try this. Great idea Mouth. I got a 30" piece of 7/8" aluminum from a local shop. I"m gonna get a friend to machine me two pieces to put underneath the bars. I didn't want to cut the other pieces off in case I wanted to put it back. Doing this made the steering -3 compare to my UMI 0 degree bars in the stock location. Check out the pics.
 

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Mouthfulloflake

Mouthfulloflake

ISJWTA member #2
Location
NW Arkansas
Looks good accbr....

I want to see the cradles that you end up with.

I am still working on mine.

well, ok, I am ot working on it, im looking at it everynow and then.
 
Speedfreak

Speedfreak

Location
So. IL
Accbr, Looking at your first picture you could have moved the bars another inch foreward. And what is the bar thickness that you are using. I have bent my UMI bars with cross pad from doing monkeyflips or jumps or 1/2 of the 50/50 what ever it is called jumping on the bars. They wern't bent far but if you sight down them you could tell that they wern't 0* anymore.

I choped the stock turnplate off this winter and moved my 0* UMI bars as far foreward as possible untill they touched the raised center piece. I just drilled new holes and bolted it together. ground out the lip on the side so the bar lays flat. That configeration cut almost 2.5 inchs off of the stock setup.


The hardest part was getting it straight. I know that straight could be achieved by adjusting the steering cable but the steeering stop would need grinding.

Wouldn't it be easier to just cut the bracket off in a straight line and reweld it on. No fabing work just 2 simple bandsaw cuts and 15 minutes of welding. I wsa even thinking about moving my bars to just infront of the raised center piece or flipping them around so that the bars are even with the pivot point and the dog leg was to the rear of it. Maybe the next time. Anyone got a stock late to send off as a test dummy. I did just get a mig welder that does alum. :biggthumpup:
 
accbr

accbr

addicted
Location
Lexington, KY
speedfreak said:
Accbr, Looking at your first picture you could have moved the bars another inch foreward. And what is the bar thickness that you are using. I have bent my UMI bars with cross pad from doing monkeyflips or jumps or 1/2 of the 50/50 what ever it is called jumping on the bars. They wern't bent far but if you sight down them you could tell that they wern't 0* anymore.

I choped the stock turnplate off this winter and moved my 0* UMI bars as far foreward as possible untill they touched the raised center piece. I just drilled new holes and bolted it together. ground out the lip on the side so the bar lays flat. That configeration cut almost 2.5 inchs off of the stock setup.
Click to expand...

The clamp on the right hand side is as far forward as possible because of the raise in the turn plate where the steering cable connects. Also, the bottom of the plate has some indentions where I drilled holes, so I didn't have to counter sink for the bolts I used. The tubing I got is about .140 wall. I can't remember what type it was(sch 40, t4, t6, etc..). It does feel a little more flexible having the bars that wide though. I may fill them with epoxy for more strength. I'm gonna get a few more pieces too.

I didn't want to cut mine yet, and this only took 10 minutes to mock up. I'm not very good at welding aluminum either :banghead: All I have is a Lincoln stick welder. I'm just gonna get some pieces machined like the ones on the top of the bars. I have another stock plate on the way, so my buddy can try to machine me another one that's shorter. Can't let him have my only plate because I hope to be on the water next weekend. Look at my tray in the last picture. I have alot more to do. I called in sick today to work on it :)
 
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Speedfreak

Speedfreak

Location
So. IL
I understand I went over and looked at the bottom of mine (it's been a while since I choped it up)

I am going to try another in a few months as soon as my buddy decides he needs some more weight up front. I am going to flip the bars over so that they are exactally level with the pivot point that will move the bars almost 4 inches by themselfs. I might just weld teh bars straight to the turn plate. Used plates sell for $5 or so on ebay I might try that on a used set just to see what happens.
 
accbr

accbr

addicted
Location
Lexington, KY
Got the brackets back today. Forgot to snap some installed pics before I put the chinpad back on. I had him make me a few extras. Here's some pics on some extra bars. I might have him weld them on the plate when I get a chance to take it back apart. I'm going to the lake tomorrow, and just put it back together quick.
 

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Mouthfulloflake

Mouthfulloflake

ISJWTA member #2
Location
NW Arkansas
Man those brackets look nice!

Why not just have that guy machine you a nwe turnplate?

better yet, have him machine me one too!

haha
 
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