RN Winter build gonna need some advice

[grezzmky]

ok, here is that plan so far. Ive got a perfectly good, stock, 2000 Superjet that needs a build up. Im selling all my Kawi poop to fund this. Let me know if you need any 650 or 750 stuff.

Here is what I have
2000 Superjet
Shortened stock pole
B pipe with Mod chamber
front and rear bilges
Revs with the toe area cut and pointed up for pipe clearance
UMI bars and throtle on stock steering plate
06 pump with Concord 13/16 and dual cooling

Here is the plan
tear it down
sell the carbs and crank
send the motor to Art at Jetworks for a 61x bigbore kit, new Hotrods crank, case and cylinder porting, 44mm Blackjacks, R&D intake with stock cages and Arts reeds
Refoam and reinforce
Dual 500 bilges in the rear and one upfront
I really want to do a scupper but my ski sits in the water over night sometimes...?
move exaust down and fix footholds
trade for a limited pipe? maybe...?
Team Bill or Waterdawg Diablo hood kit
Trim setup
WW cone
blueprint pump
limiting rope
goose handpole -4 plus whatever the steering plate shortens it
custom airbrush job

Opinions? Ideas?

 

[grezzmky]

Im getting ready to submit my order to us composites. and I cant decide what to get
My list right now is
2 yards by 50" 12oz Biaxial
2 yard by 50" 7.5oz Eglass
1oz transperant green pigment
1 gallon plus hardner thin epoxy resin with med hardner
9oz glass buble filler
and some 2lb foam
HOW MUCH FOAM DO I NEED?
And what do you think about the glass I chose?
Gonna fill the bondline with the resin and the glass bubbles then but a thin strip of biax down then a strip large enough tocover that one and the upper deck then a layer of green 7.5 oz on the whole engine compartment.

 

[Waternut]

I really want to do a scupper but my ski sits in the water over night sometimes...?<?xml:namespace prefix = o ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-comfficeffice" /><o></o>
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blueprint pump<o></o>

What about running a scupper and go to lowes to get a test plug for the pvc. When you're done riding and need to leave it in the water, just install the test plug and no water can get in that way. As long as you can get a hand by the scupper tube inside the engine bay, it won’t take more than a couple seconds. I would consider that a bandaid though since I don't recommend leaving the ski in the water overnight. <o></o>
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I've always heard that blueprinting the pump provided limited results and wasn't worth all the money you spend. I'd consider putting that money towards a hooker impeller from Impros since most people that had a 13/17 concord impeller found the hooker to be much better for acceleration.
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HOW MUCH FOAM DO I NEED?

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I estimated that I needed roughly 4.3 cubic ft. of foam coverage for the back end of the ski. I went with the 3lb foam since the 16 lb kit gave me 5 cubic ft. The reason I didn’t go with the 2lb foam was because it said it only contained 95% closed cell foam, which means more water absorption.

 

[grezzmky]

ok, decided to use closed cell foam from Lowes atleast for the botom half of the ski and some drain plugs. prob put a layer or two of 12ox biax on the bondline in the rear sence the foam wont be there like it was for reinforcement.

 

[Waternut]

Where did you find closed cell foam at lowes?

 

[grezzmky]

4x8 sheets its pink

 

[Mark44]

Foam the bond line and sand smooth instead of resin. Install drains and voids if you refoam. Don't worry about fancy paint if you ride it hard it will get beat to death anyway.

Mark44

 

[grezzmky]

Why foam instead of resin? 3lb or 5lb foam? I was also planing on using the Dow foam for atlest the botom half of the work thinking it wont hold wanter and will kind of create its own voinds (inbetween the pieces). if you foam the bondine arent you just asking for that foam to get soaked if any water seeps in the bondline?
Thanks for your advise mark!

 

[grezzmky]

Here are some before pictures the turf pics are to show the hump I have in my tray cause I had to modify the right foothold cause of the exaust. The hump is not in the glass exept for in the one foothold. I used blue camping pad from walmart for my underpad and used it to make the hump so that bothe sides would be the same. Has anybody used that for underpad? Its 1/2 inch thick 5 bux and it is more then enough for a ski.
oh yea and a pic of my new snap on cooler scooter just cause its SWEET!

 

[Waternut]

Why foam instead of resin? 3lb or 5lb foam? I was also planing on using the Dow foam for atlest the botom half of the work thinking it wont hold wanter and will kind of create its own voinds (inbetween the pieces). if you foam the bondine arent you just asking for that foam to get soaked if any water seeps in the bondline?
Thanks for your advise mark!

Keep in mind the second half of that statement... "install drains and voids"

It'd be like shooting water into a sponge. Water comes through but it's redirected and just seeps out of the bottom. If the water seeps out of the bottom of that foam, it can be drained at the end of a couple rides. Closed cell foam can hold out water for a long time as long as it isn't left there permanently.

 

[grezzmky]

if i fill the bondline with foam and glass over it the water is not gonna seep out the bottom. Its gonna stay in the foam

 

[Mark44]

Brush a thin layer of resin on the bond line then foam, this is in the engine compartment only. In the tray area I lay glass in the bond line no need to fill it all the way up.

3 lb foam.

Mark44

 

[grezzmky]

should I trade my stock ignition for a jetnetics non programable total loss and sell the MSD enhansor i have or stay stock and use the msd?

 

[oxnard111]

should I trade my stock ignition for a jetnetics non programable total loss and sell the MSD enhansor i have or stay stock and use the msd?

that just depends on what type of engine/power setup your looking for... stock ignition system with an MSD enhancer is easier and arguably more reliable.

 

[Mark44]

i

should I trade my stock ignition for a jetnetics non programable total loss and sell the MSD enhansor i have or stay stock and use the msd?

Once again it depends on your skill level?

Mark44

 

[Big Kahuna]

ok, here is that plan so far. Ive got a perfectly good, stock, 2000 Superjet that needs a build up. Im selling all my Kawi poop to fund this. Let me know if you need any 650 or 750 stuff.

Here is what I have
2000 Superjet
Shortened stock pole
B pipe with Mod chamber
front and rear bilges
Revs with the toe area cut and pointed up for pipe clearance
UMI bars and throtle on stock steering plate
06 pump with Concord 13/16 and dual cooling

Here is the plan
tear it down
sell the carbs and crank
send the motor to Art at Jetworks for a 61x bigbore kit, new Hotrods crank, case and cylinder porting, 44mm Blackjacks, R&D intake with stock cages and Arts reeds
Refoam and reinforce
Dual 500 bilges in the rear and one upfront
I really want to do a scupper but my ski sits in the water over night sometimes...?
move exaust down and fix footholds
trade for a limited pipe? maybe...?
Team Bill or Waterdawg Diablo hood kit
Trim setup
WW cone
blueprint pump
limiting rope
goose handpole -4 plus whatever the steering plate shortens it
custom airbrush job

Opinions? Ideas?

As far as your motor goes, are those items you listed what Art recommended or what you came up with?? Either way, let Art tell you what you need. He will take care of you.

It is never good to leave a standup in the water overnight, regardless if you have a scupper or not. Build a ramp it pull the ski up out of the water, or up on the dock.

When you say move exhaust down, do you mean where it passes through the bulkhead?? It needs to stay at the angle it is or bend it but have it enter the hull in the same location to help keep water from back flowing into your waterbox.

 

[grezzmky]

As far as your motor goes, are those items you listed what Art recommended or what you came up with?? Either way, let Art tell you what you need. He will take care of you.

It is never good to leave a standup in the water overnight, regardless if you have a scupper or not. Build a ramp it pull the ski up out of the water, or up on the dock.

When you say move exhaust down, do you mean where it passes through the bulkhead?? It needs to stay at the angle it is or bend it but have it enter the hull in the same location to help keep water from back flowing into your waterbox.

It is definatly Arts setup for the motor, except he says that m16 reed cages with his reeds are better but thats $700 im gonna wait for. I was also gonna wait till next year to get the total loss till next year but this even trade swap came up and Im trying to see if anybody has an opinion if trading my good system for a non adjustable TL is worth it.

Ive been told you can tun the pipe and it will lower it the 3/8 of an inch i need... Is that not true or good to do?

My ski stayed in the water overnight ONCE last year and never before and I wasnt happy about it but i had no choice. The place I stay has a 12' deep wave brake 20' in front of the dock so the water is always super smooth.

 

[grezzmky]

Once again it depends on your skill level?

Mark44

Im sure I dont need it yet especily with the new motor.
But is it worth the trade? As long as the flywheel is lighter and the timing curve is as good or better as the msd enhansor with factory flywheel, coil and stator. And these systems arent junk and unreliable then I dont see why not.

 

[grezzmky]

Talked to Bill (Goose) after work today and he said he would start on my hood and pole after Datyona. He will be making my pole, pole bracket, steering, bars, chinpad, and hood.

 

[Mark44]

o

It is definatly Arts setup for the motor, except he says that m16 reed cages with his reeds are better but thats $700 im gonna wait for. I was also gonna wait till next year to get the total loss till next year but this even trade swap came up and Im trying to see if anybody has an opinion if trading my good system for a non adjustable TL is worth it.

Ive been told you can tun the pipe and it will lower it the 3/8 of an inch i need... Is that not true or good to do?

My ski stayed in the water overnight ONCE last year and never before and I wasnt happy about it but i had no choice. The place I stay has a 12' deep wave brake 20' in front of the dock so the water is always super smooth.

IMO I would stick with stock ignition and MSD enhancer. Not sure what you mean about lowering the pipe.

For the scupper
You could install a one way valve and on the exit you could have a unthreaded pipe end (male) to a threaded end connector then you can install a threaded male plug to plug it up over night but IMO I would not let the ski sit in the water over night.

Mark44