Riverrat's X-jet rebuild

RiverRat

.......
Location
Louisville, Ky
Stripped Top and Bottom deck. 85lbs

Bottom deck alone is 60lbs

Top deck is 25lbs


I still need to finish up the bulkhead, glass the rear, plumb the bottom and reinforce the bottom deck. Should be about 90-95lbs when done. Not a "lightweight" hull but it will be lighter than stock
 

RiverRat

.......
Location
Louisville, Ky
Found out an interesting tid bit during the disassembly of the hull. Epoxy resin does not stick well to prepreg fiberglass. That means I will need to use something like Plexus or 5200 to bond the hull halves together. Plexus has roughly 2 times the strength of 5200, but I might use some allen head bolts and acorns nuts along the rail just to be safe. If I do that 5200 would be fine.
 
Last edited:
Location
Ohio
Isn't Plexus what all OE's use as well as most aftermarket hull builders?

And that projected weight matched the Envy almost perfectly.
 

chad

I pretty much love beer
Site Supporter
ramjet and I have been using pliogrip (sp) to bond hulls together, its a 2 part green glue. looks just like the green glue on oe hulls . pm me if you need a contact #
 

RiverRat

.......
Location
Louisville, Ky
ramjet and I have been using pliogrip (sp) to bond hulls together, its a 2 part green glue. looks just like the green glue on oe hulls . pm me if you need a contact #

I have decided that this hull I am just going to use 5200 and button head allen bolts w/ acorn nuts to secure the top to the bottom deck. I am really taking my time on prepping the bottom. If for whatever reason the top or bottom breaks I can more easily take the ski apart and replace just one section. OR if I want to go lighter with one of Tem's bottom decks that option is there as well.

The more I think about it the more I like this idea. Most people I know that have built hulls have had to cut their ski up numerous times to defoam, fix cracks, find leaks ect.. By assembling the hull like this you could have the entire top off the bottom in a hour with no damage to either section (no cutting and no grinding)

5200 does not have the holding strength of plexus or other adhesives, but that should not be an issue if bolts are used as well. 5200 also seals very well so I have no doubt that it will be water tight.
 

SuperJETT

So long and thanks for all the fish
Location
none
I would be concerned with the bolt holes enlarging from the hull pieces flexing/moving some and over time causing bigger issues.

Then again, it's worth a try.
 

RiverRat

.......
Location
Louisville, Ky
I would be concerned with the bolt holes enlarging from the hull pieces flexing/moving some and over time causing bigger issues.

Then again, it's worth a try.

With the amount of surface area glued I don't think that will be an issue. Plus the shape of the deck makes for a tight fit
 
Last edited:
Location
Ohio
5200 will be almost as hard to separate I bet. I have used it on some stuff on cars and even my house and after 4 years....bulletproof!
 

RiverRat

.......
Location
Louisville, Ky
5200 will be almost as hard to separate I bet. I have used it on some stuff on cars and even my house and after 4 years....bulletproof!

Thats good to hear. Plexus is nice but really expensive. At least with 5200 it will not destroy the hull when separated. 5200 cuts and tears easy once started. After that a wire wheel on a drill will finish the clean up.
 

RiverRat

.......
Location
Louisville, Ky
finished modifying the exhaust to clear the PV's. I still have some blending and painting to do. Other than attaching some hardware and rejetting the carb's it is almost ready to water test in the hull I am taking to Daytona.
 

Attachments

  • DSC00474.jpg
    DSC00474.jpg
    56.4 KB · Views: 40
  • DSC00475.jpg
    DSC00475.jpg
    64.7 KB · Views: 44
  • DSC00476.jpg
    DSC00476.jpg
    81.5 KB · Views: 48
  • DSC00477.jpg
    DSC00477.jpg
    70.2 KB · Views: 43
  • DSC00479.jpg
    DSC00479.jpg
    71.9 KB · Views: 42
Top Bottom