Super Jet make fun of the fat kid

Location
alabama
so i'm the new guy here. i'm going tomorrow to pick up my 1st superjet. i vowed to myself after getting burned on my first ski that i would never buy a ski again without a test ride. only problem is that i havent ridden a stand up in over 25 years.

i've got 3 2-stroke sit downs that i wrench on myself so i understand the basics. any suggestions for a guy who has no stand up experience on how to properly test this ski.

sorry for such a newbie question. if any one wants tips on how to ride a sit down with you rear in the air to make it go faster, i'll be glad to help.
 

FlightPlanDan

Don'tTrustAfartAfter50
What year superjet? (just curious)

Welcome to the X!

Make sure you are told what's been done to the ski. Write it down and save it. This will be helpful to the "guru" guys on here that might help you in the future.

If it's bone-stock....just ride the hell out of it until you decide what kind of riding (racing, freestyle etc..) you wanna do. Modifications are very different for different applications.
 
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Location
alabama
its an 04 with a ride plate, intake grate, and a b-pipe with stock FA/airbox but the carbs were rejetted for the pipe. not sure of the sizes of the jets. basically the initial stuff take care of for me.

with previous ski purchases, i'd warm it up and then take it through its paces including a smooth start and a WOT start with multiple passes at WOT. with a sj can i kneel the whole time or do i have to stand up? as i said earlier, its been a while and i probably don't need to be learning to ride when i'm supposed to be paying attention to the motor.
 

FlightPlanDan

Don'tTrustAfartAfter50
You have experience with 2-stroke motors. I doubt it's gonna be perfect. Maybe it sat a while. Maybe the carbs are gakked-up. Maybe there's nothing wrong!

The jets are Likely 75/135 with stock carbs. (mikuni 38's) Re-jetting is needed when a b-pipe is added.
Be glad it has a b-pipe! Just search some pricing.....

Do a compression check if you can. Stock head should give 160-165 psi.
Aftermarket head depends on a lot of things.

You don't have to stand up to know if the motor is running right. But, WOT on your knees will likely be rough. It will pourpose, even on flat water. Standing enables you to get your weight forward to stop the nose from bouncing up and down.
 
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Location
alabama
already packed the tools. compression gauge is on top. can't wait. after working on my kawasaki carbs, i'd be fine getting back into some mikuni's.
 
Location
alabama
Picked it up today. We had settled on 3k. Normal wear for a almost 7 year old ski. I have got alot to learn. 1st priority is to figure out how to alleviate the porposing. I know I've got to move forward in the tray, it just doesn't feel natural with the pole at such an acute angle. Probably can't get wet again till thanksgiving.
 

Peter123

C-Note
Location
Houston, TX
Picked it up today. We had settled on 3k. Normal wear for a almost 7 year old ski. I have got alot to learn. 1st priority is to figure out how to alleviate the porposing. I know I've got to move forward in the tray, it just doesn't feel natural with the pole at such an acute angle. Probably can't get wet again till thanksgiving.

Shorten the pole. I rode with 2 other guys last weekend on flatwater. My pole still hasn't been shortened, but one ski had -2 and the other -4.5. Mine porpoises horribly, the -2 was much better and the -4.5 was a world of difference. I've decided to go -4 on mine when I cut it down in a few weeks. You'll also porpoise less when you get more ride time in. I definitely recommend riding some skis with cut poles just to see the difference it makes. There are several member of the X in Alabama, so that shouldn't be too difficult of a task.
 
Location
alabama
I've been done a bunch of reading and I've seen that suggestion about cutting the pole. I think I'll ride a bunch before I make any drastic changes. I'm 6'2 215lbs. My gut thought is that my height makes the pole relatively short to begin with.
 
Shorten the pole.
Or just shorten the steering. I have a stock RN as a spare ski for friends. I bought straight bars, actually I went REALLY cheap and bought straight 7/8 aluminum structural tubing, cut it to my desired length and modified the stock turn plate with a drill and a grinder to allow the straight bar to clamp on. The downside was that with no knurling I had to run ODI grips with clamps, but since those are awesome grips it really wasn't a downside at all. You can't find a better $30 steering modification ;-)

You can also install a washer or two between the ride plate and the hull at the back, that will give you a little wedge.

Aaron
 

AtomicPunk

Lifetime bans are AWESOME
Site Supporter
Location
Largo, Fl
I've been done a bunch of reading and I've seen that suggestion about cutting the pole. I think I'll ride a bunch before I make any drastic changes. I'm 6'2 215lbs. My gut thought is that my height makes the pole relatively short to begin with.

I'm close to 6-2 185lbs... I cut my pole -4 and have a short steering (probably another -2).
It is easy to do, your other option is a long ride plate which most (all) guys don't like.

Ride it a couple more times and move forward (at least one foot) . Then make the mods if you can't get comfortable.

Post up some pics! Give us a list of what is done already.
 
I'm not Aaron but I have a picture of the same mod. You can shorten the stock bars all the way to the button in the middle. I think it is 3.5 inches but that far and it slightly hits your chin pad. These bars are super long. You don't want them that wide unless you are an orangutan and your knuckles drag the ground.
bars2.jpg
 

djkorn1

kidkornfilms
Site Supporter
Location
Cleveland Ohio
A shortened faster steering mod and a longer ride plate will help alot...

but mostly, just ride it ALOT. You'll get it to stop porpoising by learning how to work the throttle and your weight.
 
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