Jetworks flow control valve

I have a Jetworks flow control valve that I picked up years ago and recently decided to put it on my Coffman sizzler on the line that goes from the headpipe to the stinger.

I'm not racing, but having the throttle response be a little more crisp would be nice in stop-n-go surf riding.

90% of my riding is in choppy surf where I putt around waiting for the Big Wave. So I'm concerned about sending no water through to the waterbox.

I guess I can back the ski into the lake on a trailer, hook up a tach and the FVC, find out what RPM it opens up at, and then keep an eye on the tach while riding around.

Instead of all that, I'm hoping someone can tell me that they putt around with a JetWorks FCV all the time with no problems. . . ??


If it matters, its a squarenose with a 701 Group K motor and sizzler pipe.
 

BruceSki

Formerly Motoman25
Location
Long Island
i run mine very dry and putt around the surf all day long. it doesn't run hot at all. i can also hold it wide open all day and it won't run hot either.

when i say run hot i mean anything after the stinger, like short hose, waterbox and long hose.

hell i run wide open for about a minute at a time on the way back to the ramp.

my blaster with a protec pipe is setup the same way.
 
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Waternut

Customizing addict
Location
Macon, GA
I've been swimming a couple times up in Canada and I remember the water being very cold even in the summer. I'm sure you could get by running less water than most of us in the south. When I set mine up, I just felt the waterbox after riding a little while and it was never more than warm.
 

BruceSki

Formerly Motoman25
Location
Long Island
i would still adjust it on the trailer either way.

i have all my waterlines clamped except for the flow control onto the stinger hose. it is ziptied loosely. i can pull the flow control out of it at the ramp up against the dock or trailer and adjust within a minute. it wouldn't hurt to know exactly when the water is coming on so you don't melt anything.
 

tor*p*do

Squarenose FTW
Site Supporter
Location
NW NC
I put one on my SN 650 w/head/protec pipe and it really helped
Put one on my 750sx w/coffman pipe and it spanks the SN
need to upgrade to a 701 this winter :bigok:
no heat issues either setup
single cooling on both skis
 
Thanks for the advice.

Yeah its cold up here. Right now the air is so cold late in the day that on the WFO ride back to the ramp I get "brain freeze" that I normally only get when eating ice cream too fast.

I'll give the FCV a try on the trailer just outa curiosity.

I think I have the standard version of JetWorks FCV - it doesn't appear to be adjustable on the outside, but there is a circlip. I assume that if I don't crack it open to insert a washer or whatever then it'll be on the least restrictive setting possible.

So the people who blame FCVs for frying their waterbox or hoses.... they simply restricted too much water for the type of riding they were doing??
 

BruceSki

Formerly Motoman25
Location
Long Island
it depends on your cooling setup too. i am running dual cooling with parallel setups. the pipe has its own line. this keeps the pressure to the flow control very high. on a single cool setup it might need to be adjusted a bit different due to less pressure.

im talking out of my a$$ here though i don't know if what i said really makes sense... its just my opinion.
 
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Location
Idaho
I set mine on the trailer to open at 2300 rpm. It was working great all summer then I noticed that I was loading up again on the bottom. I found that it would open up at 2300 rpm and when I went back to idle (1250rpm) it was still letting water through. The only way to stop the water was to turn the engine off and then start back at idle. It would seal until I hit 2300 rpm again.
 
For the benefit of anyone who is searching for JW FCV info in the future....

I installed the standard FCV and farted around the lake for a good half hour keeping the revs low and every time I checked, the waterbox was not too hot to touch - I could hold my hand on it without frying it - and the short & long exhaust hoses were barely hot at all.

I might stick a rubber pad on the waterbox to prevent it from touching the gas tank just to be safe, but I'm not too worried.

And the throttle response was definitely better.
 
Any time you overheat an exhaust hose with a flow control valve it is due to lack of water flow. If you have to set a flow valve to less than 2.5 psi that tells you you have too low of water pressure. You could flow water at lower speeds and it appears all Ok. At higher speeds you need to overcome the back pressure at the stinger. This happens when you you bypass too much water for the amount of water being fed in. I still have my clear anodized flow valve from 1996 with all the original parts.
 
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