hp input wanted jetworks 4mil Vs lpw bigbore

superjet0587

superjet0587

Location
michigan
Ive narrowed down my choices to 2

Im deciding between a 4mil jetworks budget stroker and an LPW bigbore motor
Both will be run with 44 mikunis, msd enhancer, b pipe MOD, liightened stock flywheel, and some freestyle porting.

Will the jetworks stroker be worth the extra $1000 or so , or would that be better spent towards a total loss setup with the lpw bigbore.

Im lookin for all the bottom end snap and nice midrange hit.

Your input is appreciated

Thanks
Chad
 
douglee25

douglee25

m3booooy
Location
South Jersey
That's a tough call right there. Is the 4mil really $1000 more expensive? I'm assuming that's for the crank cost? I don't know but you may have to go by the old adage that 'there's no replacement for displacement'.

Doug
 
Matt_E

Matt_E

steals hub caps from cars
Site Supporter
Location
at peace
Keep in mind that the jetworks motor is a complete motor, whereas the LPW BB is a topend. That may explain some of the price difference.

Either one is a good choice. But I'd say if you have the dough, get the stroker. Better torque, and very importantly, a complete package. Less hassle, more power.
 
superjet0587

superjet0587

Location
michigan
im thinking the jetworks and keeping it around stock bore for now which will leave plenty of room for growth. the stockish bore on the jetworks 4mil is around 750cc right aroun 81mm bore

im planing my winter project
 
N

njfl

X-H2
A 770cc motor can be made many ways, for example:

Stock stroke (68mm) and 85mm bore
or
4mm stroker (72mm) and 82.5mm bore

The longer stroke motor will always make more torque (all other things being the same, i.e., builder, exhaust, etc.).

I personally own one of Art's masterpieces and am thoroughly impressed with the power that it makes, while still being moderately conservative on bore. I do not run total loss and it hits quite hard and keeps pulling.

To build a really good/strong motor, you have to start with the core, the cylinder/port work. I wouldn't try to make up for porting/stroke, etc, by add-ons such as total loss, etc. There are some key add-ons that are necessary, like a pipe, carbs, decent ignition, but the total loss, full race gas, etc. come after you've completed your focus on the foundation.
 
SuperJETT

SuperJETT

So long and thanks for all the fish
Location
none
I have a LPW 760 and have ridden a 4mm Jetworks, though it had nicer carbs than 44's and total loss, so it's not an even comparison.

This is one of those debates that nobody really knows the true answer to. I know my 760 kicks butt and pulls harder than most stock stroke Lameys I've ridden. I also know that extra stroke is more torque which is what gets you moving.

I do like the fact that if I toast my engine, it's a stock stroke crank which can be replaced very easily and for not much $$$. No undercut domes, stroker plates, or special pistons to deal with.
 
P

PancakePete

Guest
SuperJETT said:
84mm you mean, and I can go to 86mm if I recall correctly.
Click to expand...

i have 500 hrs on my cyl. and went from 84 to 84.5 and still have 3 bores left... I think you can go bigger thatn 86 ? I dont remeber either though.

I would like to build a stroker motor too, after testing Jetworks motor.
HOLY... for a stroker... Jetworks was really powerful.

as for LPW 763 big bore... I have been literally beating the snot out of them for years.. As long as sleves are ok, motor last forever. :cheer:
 
F

FL-cracker

X-H2O
Location
old exit 72 Melbourne
If I was spending the dough on a stroker I would just go all out.

8mm+
Lamey Non powervalve.

expensive yes..... but Id rather just do it the way I would realy want it the first time and be done.

I realy like the way my TLR 85.5mm bigbore hits.... I dont even Have a MSD inhancer..... with Total Loss I think it would be a absolute beast..... And with the TBM cone and 12/17 C-75 it stays hooked up....
 
THRUST

THRUST

ThrustInnovations.com
Location
royal palm beach florida
why not just do a big bore 85mm and do the the stroker at the same time . the cost difference should only be the crank then if jetworks is a 1000 more a stroker crank is around 1200-1300 . so now you get both for near the same price . or do the bige bore now and upgrade in a year to a stroker setup . then the following year you can upgrade to a lamey pv cylinder. the three year plan .
 
SuperJETT

SuperJETT

So long and thanks for all the fish
Location
none
Virgin said:
why not just do a big bore 85mm and do the the stroker at the same time . the cost difference should only be the crank then if jetworks is a 1000 more a stroker crank is around 1200-1300 . so now you get both for near the same price . or do the bige bore now and upgrade in a year to a stroker setup . then the following year you can upgrade to a lamey pv cylinder. the three year plan .
Click to expand...

FL-cracker said:
If I was spending the dough on a stroker I would just go all out.

8mm+
Lamey Non powervalve.

expensive yes..... but Id rather just do it the way I would realy want it the first time and be done.

I realy like the way my TLR 85.5mm bigbore hits.... I dont even Have a MSD inhancer..... with Total Loss I think it would be a absolute beast..... And with the TBM cone and 12/17 C-75 it stays hooked up....
Click to expand...

The 4mm strokers don't require crankcase machining that I know of and the crank is apparently fairly reasonable compared to a 5/6/8mm.
 
RiverRat

RiverRat

.......
Location
Louisville, Ky
njfl said:
To build a really good/strong motor, you have to start with the core, the cylinder/port work. I wouldn't try to make up for porting/stroke, etc, by add-ons such as total loss, etc. There are some key add-ons that are necessary, like a pipe, carbs, decent ignition, but the total loss, full race gas, etc. come after you've completed your focus on the foundation.
Click to expand...

Agree.......doing a proven package is cheaper in the long run. I have been changing stuff on my motor since I got it make it better for freestyle. I started with a old race ported lamey PV and kept adding stuff here and there. It does really well for me but its nice to drop in a package, tune it up a little and run it hard for the life of the motor. That way you don't have to wonder??????? What if the porting is wrong for this combination.......then start changing this and that.
 
F

FL-cracker

X-H2O
Location
old exit 72 Melbourne
SuperJETT said:
The 4mm strokers don't require crankcase machining that I know of and the crank is apparently fairly reasonable compared to a 5/6/8mm.
Click to expand...

Yes sir, that is correct! And with the 8mm you will only get the full power potential when used with a Lamey cylinder from what I have been told.... due to the added ports for the given displacement.

So yea... I guess depending on your budget, maybe a Bigbore flattop with the Jetworks +4mm is the way to go..... If the cranks $1000... thats realy only $600 more then a Hot rods.... do it up!

What are engine buiders such as Paul (LPW) charging for labor of a ported bigbore flattop cylinder to be used with the +4mm.

Edit:Could you use the Jetworks +4mm with a otherwise stock motor (Decking/porting) Does any machining need to be done or are the rods compensated for the added stroke of the crank?
 
Last edited:
Matt_E

Matt_E

steals hub caps from cars
Site Supporter
Location
at peace
And with the 8mm you will only get the full power potential when used with a Lamey cylinder from what I have been told.... due to the added ports for the given displacement.
Click to expand...

Not quite. Stock cylinders can be used up to 5mm, after that the port timing is wrong and inadequate.
It doesn't have to be a Lamey, either. There are a few AM cylinder options out there.
 
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