Freestyle help! prop stuck in mag pump

[freestyle 650]

So I got this 145 set back skat mag with a ti drivshaft and a 13/18 prop off a memeber here. After getting my motor set up and tuned it just didn't have the top end pull that it should, upon closer investigation, the trailing edges of the prop have some damage and apper to be bent, anyway, I can't get this prop off the drive shaft to save my life.I've broken 2 vises and have tried soaking it in penetrating oil, heating it till the prop was glowing red, used a 10lb hammer and also tried putting it in my cnc lathe and chucked up nice and close to the prop to eliminate the twisting of the drive shaft and hit it with the hammer, still no luck. Any other ideas guys?

 

[Matt_E]

You know it's a reverse thread, right?

 

[freestyle 650]

Yes, righty loosey

 

[Matt_E]

Ok, just checking. Sounds like you already did everything you can do.
I'd send it to Impros.

 

[freestyle 650]

Ok, thanks

 

[freestyle 650]

Does anybody know if its possible to press the driveshaft and prop out together, or is there a snap ring retaining the front bearing?

 

[Matt_E]

The shaft presses out the other way.

 

[hornedogg79]

I don't think it'll press out in that direction. I had a similar issue with a 550 pump one time. Soaking in penetrating oil for days, broke a vice, had it glowing orange, and using a 6ft cheater bar. I gave up on it and threw it to the side. A year or so later an old timer told me to try melting candle wax down in the threads. Somehow that worked. I didn't have any threads left on my shaft or impeller but it came off. Might be worth trying.

 

[claudefrog]

I had the same issue recently, i ended up with an 8ft bar on a pipe wrench and heated the prop with an acetelene torch until it was glowing red and snapped the shaft inside the prop.

New prop and shaft needed for me

 

[FearMyWrX]

Not that you did this, but to prevent this from happening in the future make sure use anti-seize on your new prop if you do it yourself.

 

[NorCalSJ]

Mine was a pita to get off, had to use vice grips and like a 5' bar with heat and the removal tool was flexing/bending. Luckily I finally broke it loose...

 

[Tyler Zane]

Before you send it off try a 1/2 in impact. Its the only way I do it, IMO.

 

[eak_photography]

5 ft long tube or so around a wrench always works, try spraying penetrating oil to soak the threads as well, this will eat rust and other forms of corrosion

 

[freestyle 650]

I tried the penetrating oil soak and the heat/cheaterbar combo and the nose of the prop blew out where the hex tool slips in.does anyone know if its possible to heat the housing on the magpump and press out the wearring and stator section?

 

[LegDragger64]

If you can saw the prop you stand a chance of salvaging the driveshaft .
To bad there is nat a flat section at rear of driveshaft to put a wrench on . Yamaha props being left hand thread only get tighter while riding . Bummer when it happens . Ive got one right now that I cant get off . Whenever the pump bearings go bad or prop gets dinged I will have to cut the prop . Dont want to ruin a $400 setback driveshaft that has no runout . Threads were greased and a month later wont come off with four foot cheater pipes and shaft twisting . May try the impact trick when the time comes . Luckily prop pitch is perfect and have a variety of nozzle rings in case .

 

[623pwr]

If all else fails, give dry ice a try. I know it works great for putting bearings in and flipping the outer ring on a flywheel. I learned this trick when I changed my kx250f crank bearing last winter. Not sure if will work or not but its is worth a try. I think you can get it for under 10 bucks.

 

[BruceSki]

I had this same problem with my skat mag. Skat trak told me its because I didn't grease the threads. (yeah okay, this is the first prop iv'e ever put on and didn't use any right?)
anyhow it was greased like every OEM shaft and prop I have ever assembled.

Same problem as above, couldn't get the prop loose at all, broke a few wrenches, cheater bars, and a vise.

Had to send the whole pump to Skat for them to machine it and pull the whole shaft with prop out of the stator section. Then they cut off my 250 dollar prop and salvalged what was left of the threads.


My guess is they make their shafts out of garbage quality stainless. Nothing beats OEM quality. I've never had an OEM shaft I couldn't get a prop off of after a little heat and some cheater bar encouragement. And Iv'e pulled apart some salty mess pumps.

 

[623pwr]

I wonder if a washer or a shim would help it from not seating so tight. I know when I am core drilling concrete they have a washer between the core drill bit and the seating surface so you can remove the bit easier. After hearing your reviews it makes me think twice about getting an aftermarket drive shaft.

 

[masterblaster]

use pb blaster to soak for a few days then heat the prop till orange and try and cool just the shaft the best you can with water or dry ice.The trick above with melting candle wax down in the threads with the prop heated up sounds interesting,doesnt seem like it would be able to get very far into the threads though

 

[623pwr]

Here is an example of how well the dry ice works, but it is for a different application. Not sure how well it would work for this application.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8WeUoyEgfrE