Flywheel removal and Coupler removal

michael950

for me to POOP on!
Location
Houston, TX
The service manual has specialty tools to use when removing the flywheel bolt and for coupler removal....


If I needed to remove the coupler or flywheel, and did not want to mess up the short shaft or couplers with wrench teeth how can I remove them cleanly?

Will the strap wrenches work?
 

michael950

for me to POOP on!
Location
Houston, TX
Example:

Update: Sears price of ~$14. Great tool to have in the box.
 

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Matt_E

steals hub caps from cars
Site Supporter
Location
at peace
Is the crank in the cases w/cylinders? If so, I get both off by inserting a length of soft rope into one cylinder through the spark plug hole.

If the crank is out of the engine, you can get the coupler off by carefully putting the crank web(s) into a vice (soften it with a towel or something like that) and putting a breaker bar into the coupler teeth.

I wouldn't try taking off the flywheel like that.
 

2lick

Brap!!!
Location
Limerick, PA
Once i used rope,

Once i used a block of wood in the coupler and hit the wood hard and fast to spin it free...

As for the flywheel... I just used a puller and do it snappy!
 

2lick

Brap!!!
Location
Limerick, PA
I removed mine in the ski once also,

I pulled the tank, coupler cover
Used the puller on the flywheel
had a friend "try to hold" the couplers in the back with his hands.....

It eventually came off....

If you have air wrench, its supposed to be a cake walk.
 

sjetrider

615 Freeriders are addicted to T1 madness.
To pull the flywheel use a cheap harmonic ballancer puller from autozone $15 w/ nifty case.
I would remove coupler from crank before flywheel (if still in cases) and use flywheel bolt w/ 1/2 breaker and 17mm socket to hold crank and use a 2x2 3' long or so pc of wood to break coupler loose.

If crank is out of cases, put a wrist pin in the rod end and clamp the wrist pin in vise and remove coupler same way. On the intermediate shaft, I have always used an old drive shaft inside it and vised the drive shaft.
 

sjetrider

615 Freeriders are addicted to T1 madness.
And for those lacking an impact wrench?

BTW: how do you tighten it back, with the impact wrench?

Yeah, supposed to torque to 50psi I think, I impact it on and off. Never tried one w/o impact, I guess you gotta choose which one you want off worse. Use coupler and 2x2 to hold in place and breaker bar to remove flywheel bolt maybe????????
 

Matt_E

steals hub caps from cars
Site Supporter
Location
at peace
If you don't have an impact wrench, the crank MUST be held stationary for removal of the bolt (and flywheel)
EDIT: The rope trick (or anything other than the special flywheel holder tool) are considered ghetto.
But hey, it works.
 
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michael950

for me to POOP on!
Location
Houston, TX
I must be doing something wrong, I purchased a craftsman harmonic balancer puller (the chickenfoot looking thing) and I can not get the flywheel off.

Thread the 3 bolts into flywheel, and turn long bolt. What's the deal?
 

2lick

Brap!!!
Location
Limerick, PA
Your pulling against the flywheel, I had the same problem...
I have the same puller and ran into the same problem... here is the soulution...

The presure end (center bolt) of the puller does not fit in too the cavity where the bolt came from... the flat end and pointed end they supplie dont work.... hence your pulling against the flywheel...

At the time what I did was back out the flywheel bolt an eight inch and then pulled against it.... Once the flywheel popped I removed the bolt and then the flywhel...

Although once I did that it was recomended to me not to beacuse it puts alot of pressure on the threads.....
The second time I got some metal stock (larger than thread hole but smaller thatn flywheel hole) that would fit in there, works great then....

Hope this helps you!!!
 
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michael950

for me to POOP on!
Location
Houston, TX
Your pulling against the flywheel, I had the same problem...
I have the same puller and ran into the same problem... here is the soulution...

The presure end (center bolt) of the puller does not fit in too the cavity where the bolt came from... the flat end and pointed end they supplie dont work.... hence your pulling against the flywheel...

At the time what I did was back out the flywheel bolt an eight inch and then pulled against it.... Once the flywheel popped I removed the bolt and then the flywhel...

Although once I did that it was recomended to me not to beacuse it puts alot of pressure on the threads.....
The second time I got some metal stock (larger than thread hole but smaller thatn flywheel hole) that would fit in there, works great then....

Hope this helps you!!!

Yeah, I figured that from the start so I took an old 12 or 14mm socket that fit snugly on the crank and used the flat end on the puller. But how hard/tight should it be? and I do remove with long center bolt and not the 3 smalls, right?
 

2lick

Brap!!!
Location
Limerick, PA
yeah large center only... i dont htink you can take off the others....

pull with all your might... you will probably even brake/bend a puller bolt or two... i did... really crank hard and when it gets to like a stping point in the revolution of the motor... push hard a fast... it will come eventually....
 

michael950

for me to POOP on!
Location
Houston, TX
I was doing it right, unfortunately I threaded a bolt too far and it buggered a contact on the stator.
 

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