feartheride
feartheride
- Location
- St.Catharines,On.Canada
What did you screw up,you know if you screw up the outer windings on a coil you can just take them off and reconnect it won,t matter
Flywheel removal and Coupler removal
- Thread starter michael950
- Start date
tom21
havin fun
- Location
- clearwater FL
fyi I use a washer, its soft enought to not damage anything and I have lots of extras.and it has a hole in the center for the pointy tip on the tool
sjetrider
615 Freeriders are addicted to T1 madness.
- Location
- in the 615 (Nashville)
sjetrider
615 Freeriders are addicted to T1 madness.
- Location
- in the 615 (Nashville)
I tape the threads on the puller bolts to the depth you can go, Sorry forgot to mentoin that part.
SUPERJET-113
GASKETS FOR CHAMP BRAP!
- Location
- Lake Havasu City, AZ USA
I luv my impact gun. Makes everything a SNAP!
michael950
for me to POOP on!
- Location
- Houston, TX
This is the first time I have removed a flywheel, and not having a spare I had no idea how far. After I removed it, I took a sharpie and marked the threads.
michael950
for me to POOP on!
- Location
- Houston, TX
By the way, the tool in post #2 does help keep the coupler in place when removing the flywheel. Great $14 tool. Was in a 2 pack, a large in red and small in blue.
It is much easer to do with 2 people and not one, but I manage.
sjetrider
615 Freeriders are addicted to T1 madness.
- Location
- in the 615 (Nashville)
cool good info, may need that someday for sure
michael950
for me to POOP on!
- Location
- Houston, TX
Still no luck on removal of flywheel on the blaster. The SJ was no where near as difficult.
Again, the engine is in the ski should I remove it? This is beginning to tick me off.
Again, the engine is in the ski should I remove it? This is beginning to tick me off.
michael950
for me to POOP on!
- Location
- Houston, TX
How do they go back on, just align with key and tighten bolt?
kskip
X
First thing is to get the garage cooler full of ice and beer, (Tequila is good too, gives you strength) If you are womping on that bad boy with a puller and a rope and nothing happens, (SLOW DOWN!), drink with your buds and pray to the Jet Ski Gods for forgiveness..
All kidding aside, the rope and steering wheel puller will work, sometimes though what has happened is that the flywheel has "rocked" on the crankshaft and actually "welded" itself to the tapper of the shaft.
This sounds crazy but I am old and my body gets po'ed at me all the time,,like the previous post's have mentioned, "air impact wrench", if you have to, go to a local auto shop, slip the guy a 20 and a bottle of Jack.....It's worth it....
.kskip
All kidding aside, the rope and steering wheel puller will work, sometimes though what has happened is that the flywheel has "rocked" on the crankshaft and actually "welded" itself to the tapper of the shaft.
This sounds crazy but I am old and my body gets po'ed at me all the time,,like the previous post's have mentioned, "air impact wrench", if you have to, go to a local auto shop, slip the guy a 20 and a bottle of Jack.....It's worth it....
.kskip
- Location
- Near Seattle WA
Flywheel lock
I offer a flywheel lock that will hold the flywheel in place while torquing and/or removing the flywheel. If the flywheel is difficult to remove, I suggest driving your ski to a local tire shop, repair center, etc and offering them a few dollars to remove the flywheel with a strong impact.. Removing the flywheels with hand tools can be difficult, and the "rope trick" puts an added load on the rod bearings, pistons skirts, etc. The 20 bucks and a "bottle of Jack" is well worth it, as you can easily cause more damage than you are repairing. You might also look at the "electric impact" on my site that we use at the races, etc. Thanks,
Randy at Watcon
I offer a flywheel lock that will hold the flywheel in place while torquing and/or removing the flywheel. If the flywheel is difficult to remove, I suggest driving your ski to a local tire shop, repair center, etc and offering them a few dollars to remove the flywheel with a strong impact.. Removing the flywheels with hand tools can be difficult, and the "rope trick" puts an added load on the rod bearings, pistons skirts, etc. The 20 bucks and a "bottle of Jack" is well worth it, as you can easily cause more damage than you are repairing. You might also look at the "electric impact" on my site that we use at the races, etc. Thanks,
Randy at Watcon
Idok
F1pro
- Location
- Nations oldest muthaF+++kin city
- Location
- Southern Virginia
yep thats it!
michael950
for me to POOP on!
- Location
- Houston, TX
I picked up a flywheel puller (harmonic balance puller), the chicken foot, but the threads may be too coarse to get the leverage I need to pull the flywheel. This thing is not budging, and the more I torque down the more the puller twists. Then the bolts start bending and bolt flanges bend.
Anyone try the Watcon, but at $100 that is kinda steep.
http://www.watcon.com/Catalog_Pages/Flywheel_Puller.htm
Anyone try the Watcon, but at $100 that is kinda steep.
http://www.watcon.com/Catalog_Pages/Flywheel_Puller.htm
accbr
addicted
- Location
- Lexington, KY
I use an impact wrench on the flywheel puller bolt as well. Yanks it right off there. If you don't have air tools you can get an electric impact wrench at harbor freight for $50. I have one in addition to my air tools, and it works just as good.
michael950
for me to POOP on!
- Location
- Houston, TX
Update:
On Feb. 8th I was able to pull the flywheel on the blaster. I exchanged my Craftsman harmonic balance puller for a new one (the threads and head of the bolts on the old were stripped).
I removed the engine from the boat and placed it on the floor in the garage (on a runner of carpet from the house). I marked the threads of the bolts with a sharpie marker using my 62t flywheel from the superjet to ensure I did not damage the stator on the blaster engine. If you thread the bolts too far on the puller you can damage the stator.
Anyway, I also marked the bolt head with a dot to count the turns so all three were threaded equally.
I used the largest socket possible that would fit inside the middle of the flywheel so the puller was countered on the crank. If you do not use a bolt, socket, etc. the puller will press against the flywheel and you will achieve nothing.
I used an 8" piece of 3/8" rope in the front cylinder and used a breaker bar and a pipe to get the additional leverage required to pull the flywheel. It would have helped if someone could have held the engine place, but I managed.
The extra leverage helped and I was able to finally get the flywheel off. Appearantly the mechanic who last replaced the top end red-loctited EVERYTHING. Even the flywheel and woodruff key.
On Feb. 8th I was able to pull the flywheel on the blaster. I exchanged my Craftsman harmonic balance puller for a new one (the threads and head of the bolts on the old were stripped).
I removed the engine from the boat and placed it on the floor in the garage (on a runner of carpet from the house). I marked the threads of the bolts with a sharpie marker using my 62t flywheel from the superjet to ensure I did not damage the stator on the blaster engine. If you thread the bolts too far on the puller you can damage the stator.
Anyway, I also marked the bolt head with a dot to count the turns so all three were threaded equally.
I used the largest socket possible that would fit inside the middle of the flywheel so the puller was countered on the crank. If you do not use a bolt, socket, etc. the puller will press against the flywheel and you will achieve nothing.
I used an 8" piece of 3/8" rope in the front cylinder and used a breaker bar and a pipe to get the additional leverage required to pull the flywheel. It would have helped if someone could have held the engine place, but I managed.
The extra leverage helped and I was able to finally get the flywheel off. Appearantly the mechanic who last replaced the top end red-loctited EVERYTHING. Even the flywheel and woodruff key.