FINALLY got my SJ to start but no power!!!

[Mark44]

Just buy some new carbs they are not that expensive then you won’t have someone else’s problems. I think I paid 175.00 each for my 44's.
Well worth the money to have new carbs.

PM speeedfreak he can tell you where we have been getting them from the cheapest.

Mark44 Brap!

 

[Mouthfulloflake]

I usually agree with Mark44, but this time I have to differ.

he only has a single sbn44.

its fairly simple, IF he starts out with one that hasnt had a saltwater soak.

buy one from someone on here, that for sure WORKS.

Mine WORKED, but needs a needle/seat assembly, which is $20.

thats probably half way to a good used carb WITH a useable needle/seat.

Unless of course you simply want the piece of mind of all new stuff, which I have to admit is nice sometimes.

IM not even sure what a new one costs, seems like Zigler had some for sale at one time for $150ish?

 

[SUPERTUNE]

Do you know for sure you have the fuel lines connected on the carb correct? The fuel line from the fuel filter goes on the bottom barb and the return line is the top barb that goes back to the top of gas tank. The in and out line are inline on the carb, the pulse line goes on the barb on the fuel pump plate.
When you rebuilt carb did you use follow the carb assembly diagram in the kit to assemble in the correct order?

 

[severinsen]

Supertune

I checked once more to make sure the lines were correct and they are. When I put the carb back I made sure to follow the diagrams and had no problem geeting everything back in order.

Mouthfuloflake

Are you interested in selling your back-up carb? I could just get a new needle/seat. If you're not, I completely understand. I can just try to find one on eBay or on this site. I figure if I buy one and then find out it wasnt the carb, I can just re-sell it.

Mark44

I wish I could buy new. The problem is that i"m not sure it's the carb because I know the one I have now is clean. If I buy new and the carb is not the problem, then I just wasted money...even if I re-sell it. Money that could be used to fix the real problem.

I feel I'm never going to get to ride :banghead:

 

[severinsen]

You know what...I take that back. I dont care if it's 40-50 degrees when I finally get it up, I'm riding. I live in Florida anyway

Quick question

Would it be ok to hook the waterhose to the ski and give it full throttle for a few seconds?

 

[Mouthfulloflake]

you can rev it all you want, no need for the hose even, as long its like 10 secon ds or less, and wait for it to cool off when you are done.

If you already have a flush kit and KNow how to use, then thats fine too, run it all you want like that.

Id rather not sell my backup carb, but like I said I would loan it to you for testing, but that might be more trouble than its worth if you have to change everything around ( jets and needle/seat)

You know what...I take that back. I dont care if it's 40-50 degrees when I finally get it up, I'm riding. I live in Florida anyway

Quick question

Would it be ok to hook the waterhose to the ski and give it full throttle for a few seconds?

 

[severinsen]

So I performed the test again that Mouthfuloflake recommended to me. I revved the ski up all the way and poured some fuel down the carb. When I did this today (before I poured fuel), it sounded loud and like it was getting full RPM!! However, I still poured fuel. It almost stopped when I did it...almost flooded it. So I used less fuel at full throttle, and still no increase in RPM!! I guess it's getting plenty fuel.

Im confused. What would cause it to get full RPM hooked to a waterhose, but hardly any RPMs when it's in the water? I'm going to take it to the canal on Monday to test again just in case it's now getting full RPM cause more fuel has ran through the carb and cleaned it.

Thanks

 

[Adam]

So I performed the test again that Mouthfuloflake recommended to me. I revved the ski up all the way and poured some fuel down the carb. When I did this today (before I poured fuel), it sounded loud and like it was getting full RPM!! However, I still poured fuel. It almost stopped when I did it...almost flooded it. So I used less fuel at full throttle, and still no increase in RPM!! I guess it's getting plenty fuel.

Im confused. What would cause it to get full RPM hooked to a waterhose, but hardly any RPMs when it's in the water? I'm going to take it to the canal on Monday to test again just in case it's now getting full RPM cause more fuel has ran through the carb and cleaned it.

Thanks

Wow. Ive been having the SAME EXACT problem with my ski for the past month, and every time i think I fixed the prob...NOPE.
My next steps are to tear down the carb and check my stator is tight.

 

[severinsen]

Adam

Hate to hear you're suffering with me man. Hopefully we will get it fixed soon.

 

[hangtime]

Sounds like your needle and seats are bad .My boat would run fine last year on land and as soon as there is back pressure in the water it wouldnt run but would also run on the hose because there is no back pressure there either.

get a rebuild kit and you'll be good to go :biggthumpup:

 

[Mouthfulloflake]

compression test severison?

the last engine I had that gave me that problem, was worn the hell out.

125 psi stock, 150 with a westcost head.

both numbers are about 25 psi lower than they should be.

it ran if I feathered it in the water, but once it died you could never restart.
out of the water, it started and ran easily.
I think it didnt have enough ring seal to handle the load of the pump being in the water.

have you done a compression test?

also... dumping TOO much fuel down the carb would drown it as well, its more of a dribble sort of thing.... I assume you figured that out?

 

[severinsen]

I had no means to do a compression test, but if you think that could be a problem, then I will go pick one up at autozone for $20 tomorrow. BTW..is the stock compression supposed to be 150 on a 61X? I hope the problem is the needle and seat like hangtime is saying. I am going to be furious because the guy who owned the shop that I purchased the engine from assured and promised me that the compression is where it should be. If that is it and he will not make the repairs for me or partially reemburse me so I can figure out how to make the repairs, I feel that a small claims lawsuit may be in order. Only problem is that I can not find the hand written receipt he gave me so it will be my word against his.

I'm getting ahead of myself though...i need to test it first and then, if there is a compression problem, confront the guy who sold it to me. He seems like an ok guy. I'm very worried now!

:banghead: :shooter3:

 

[Shonuff]

Perhaps your impeller to too pitched to for your current horsepower. Like it's an 8/17 for some ungodly reason.

 

[severinsen]

Did a compession test. 120 on front and back. What do you think?

 

[Mouthfulloflake]

I think those numbers are LOW, but suspect your guage may not be so accurate either.

is it either a quality guage, or brand new?

in my own experience, cheaper guages read lower and lower as they age.

one way to test your needle and seat valve also...

get it started, running, then turn the fuel knob off.

this will remove the pressure from the pump to the needle/seat and usually run better ( until it starves for fuel...) but if it gets crisper like that, then you know its likely leaking and flooding out.

if those numbers are right 120 psi in each hole, thats a pretty worn in engine, OR the bore/ring gap is off - or possibly its got some radical port job?

 

[severinsen]

It's a new tester...it's a Innova Equus from orliey's auto parts..cost 20 bucks.

I dont have a fuel knob...is there any other way to do it?

 

[norcal ex]

those guages are crappy...any numbers you want to count as accurate would be a snap on or something that costs upwards of 250

 

[Mouthfulloflake]

those guages are crappy...any numbers you want to count as accurate would be a snap on or something that costs upwards of 250

that has NOT been my experience.
they are within 2 lbs of a snap on guage when new, they just gradually read lower and lower with age.

Severinson, feel free to try it with a guage that people on here would trust more.

or try it on another ski... if you have someone close to you. to get an idea if its reading close or not.

your problem sounds more and more like the problem I had with my 61x engine.

 

[severinsen]

What is the normal psi for a stock 61X? If the reading im getting of 120 is fairly accurate, is this WAY too low for good performance?

Just want to know because I need to make a decision in either investing in the carb first or contacting the the guy I bought this engine from and working something out with him.


Mouthfulloflake

Woud the test you recommended work if I just kink the fuel line? If I do this and nothing happens (no more RPMs), then would you think it is a compression problem for sure? If I have to fix this, what all would I need to buy- just a piston kit? Is it easy to fix? Any special tools needed?

Thanks again guys

 

[Mouthfulloflake]

SHOULD read around 150 psi.

kinking the fuel line or disconnecting it would work. or pull the pulse line that modulates the fuel pump diafrahgm ( sp?).

is there no one close to you that can lend a hand?
this is one of those things that would be MUCH easier to diagnose in person.

Load that ski up and come to NW Arkansas!
haha

I hopeyou arent looking at a top end job, it isnt TOO hard, machine work ( bore/hone) pistons and gaskets, reinstall.

break in, ride.

BUT, if you tear it down you might as well port it!
pm me if it comes to a rebuild, ive got some leads for bargains.

What is the normal psi for a stock 61X? If the reading im getting of 120 is fairly accurate, is this WAY too low for good performance?

Just want to know because I need to make a decision in either investing in the carb first or contacting the the guy I bought this engine from and working something out with him.


Mouthfulloflake

Woud the test you recommended work if I just kink the fuel line? If I do this and nothing happens (no more RPMs), then would you think it is a compression problem for sure? If I have to fix this, what all would I need to buy- just a piston kit? Is it easy to fix? Any special tools needed?

Thanks again guys