Faulty Brand new battery?

Well i re grounded it. Sanded the back of the starter where it is bolted down, Sanded the terminal and cranked her down. Did not change a thing. I was weiry on the ground but for sure it has to be a good ground.


What i do not get is the ski has power to turn a bilge on, To make the starter relay CLICK nice like it should, but not turn the start over. When i put my power probe on the battery side of th relay it reads Constant power. When i put it on the starter side it shows ground. When i Hit the start button the Power indicator goes on the probe and show positive power.
 

Big Kahuna

Administrator
Location
Tuscaloosa, AL
Well i re grounded it. Sanded the back of the starter where it is bolted down, Sanded the terminal and cranked her down. Did not change a thing. I was weiry on the ground but for sure it has to be a good ground.


What i do not get is the ski has power to turn a bilge on, To make the starter relay CLICK nice like it should, but not turn the start over. When i put my power probe on the battery side of th relay it reads Constant power. When i put it on the starter side it shows ground. When i Hit the start button the Power indicator goes on the probe and show positive power.

relay and bilges do not draw nearly the amps the starter does.

You need to try new battery leads.
 

ger87410

How did I get here?
Location
Fort Worth
So i have a SMALL hunch what may be causing the issue.. Not totally sure but on the battery side of the power cable I have put a new ring terminal on. It is just a cheap chitty terminal. I just crimped that over the corroded wire. Sinking in saltwater has forever screwed my boat.

There's your problem. I bet it you run a new cable, the problem'll go away.

It's the positive side you recrimped, huh?
 

tom21

havin fun
Location
clearwater FL
first I would check the battery out. start at the beginning. makes no sense to run down every possibility when you need to start at the power source and work out ward. its only a battery, a solenoid and 3 cables. get your meter working and watch the volts.:pancake:


edit
oh sure now you tell us it has chitty cables!!!
 
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ger87410

How did I get here?
Location
Fort Worth
Simple. It's all in how many amps can travel across the crappy wires.

Eboxes, bilges, etc pull minimal amps, but a full 12V. Starters *need* the amps more then the volts.

Crappy wires will provide the full 12V, but won't be able to provide the amps.
 
Well now i feel like ive circled to nothing...

I have the ebox apart again.. I put the jump box back on the pos and neg and it would not turn over. Just click. So with the ebox apart now i put the jump box on the starter side of the relay.. nadda nadda nadda scrape tap scrape nadda. then it spun. i took the cable off to let off the starter. did it again. fine. did it again and held it for about 4 seconds before it stopped spinning and all went silent again. Everything was still connected. unhook the cables. re hook them up just click. try in a diff part on the wire.. same thing.
 
So i have a SMALL hunch what may be causing the issue.. Not totally sure but on the battery side of the power cable I have put a new ring terminal on. It is just a cheap chitty terminal. I just crimped that over the corroded wire. Sinking in saltwater has forever screwed my boat.

sinking the boat in saltwater has ABSOLUTELY NOTHING to do with your problems

I cannot count how many times I have sunk my boats in the ocean....




however, not addressing the problems correctly after it happend DID screw your boat :banghead:
 

Big Kahuna

Administrator
Location
Tuscaloosa, AL
Well now i feel like ive circled to nothing...

I have the ebox apart again.. I put the jump box back on the pos and neg and it would not turn over. Just click. So with the ebox apart now i put the jump box on the starter side of the relay.. nadda nadda nadda scrape tap scrape nadda. then it spun. i took the cable off to let off the starter. did it again. fine. did it again and held it for about 4 seconds before it stopped spinning and all went silent again. Everything was still connected. unhook the cables. re hook them up just click. try in a diff part on the wire.. same thing.

unless you can bolt your jump box you cannot guarantee the jump box is getting good connectivity.
 

tom21

havin fun
Location
clearwater FL
lol, yes I bet if you wait long enough it will turn again then stop, repeat. if you can get your hand on it, it will probably be nice and hot from trying to turn. you also should see a good drop in voltage on the battery from shorting it like that.
 

SUPERTUNE

Race Gas Rules
Location
Clearwater Fl.
Rebuilt starters...No way for me, Cheap ones last 1-2 seasons and OEM's last 4 seasons, if you keep them dry, mainly the front cover. If any water gets in the front cover it will go right into the starter as the splined shaft is NOT sealed for water, oil, and grime and needs to live in a clean and dry environment.
 
Sounds like one or more of the cables is a good possiblity. Once you attempt to crank it the first time the short heats up making it even harder to get juice thru and thats why it goes from slow to no crank.

Happened this spring to my Blaster. I thought the same thing as I had also put a new terminal on the battery positive but in the end it was the ground cable had gone bad and It still looked just fine on the outside.

good luck
 
Location
ANGOLA
i have a battery cell tester ansd a regular battery tester to if you need it.
i got my money on a wire that the red salt water got to
 

cattledog

EH TEAM RACING
Location
toronto canada
sounds like the ground just like people said on here, installl another wire from your battery negative to any bolt on flywheel cover, you can use a jumper cable if you dont have another battery wire around
 
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