Electrical Help Please

[JetManiac]

There is lots of good advice in this thread.

I think you should find out what the issue is, or more likely issues are, “before throwing the baby out with the bathwater” and switching to a 760 setup. Many guys are running a 62t setup sucessfully. It is easy to swap an oem 62t flywheel to see if that is the issue. Leave it in there while you test for other things.

As others have said above, secure and stable power and ground cables and connections are needed for any electrical system to function and be reliable. Your pics show many wiring issues which are common, we see them all the time in skis.


All cables need to be marine grade, which means no raw copper wire. Copper is highly conductive, but also highly corrosive. Marine grade wire is tinned to slow down this corrosion.

The crimps in most or all of these pics are upside down. They look weak and possibly intermitently tight if at all.
Most crimp on terminals are made from flat metal which is rolled, and the joint is on top. There are different types of crimpers for insulated and for uninsulated terminals, either can make a good crimp.

When you crimp a terminal, make sure the rounded part of your crimp tool matches up with the line where the 2 ends of the metal meet. Then when you crimp they stay tight together and the tool’s crimp pin pushes in from the bottom against solid metal. You get a nice tight crimp this way.



More upside down weak crimps on wires. Extra wire splices, non waterproof butt splices and terminals all over the place. Your system is as reliable as the weakest connection.

New power, starter, and ground cables, new ebox gasket, new fuse holder assembly should be installed before you do anymore testing.

 

[WFO Speedracer]

Those type of crimps pictured on the cables suck period , I crimp connections all the time, for terminals I have the correct crimping tool, for cables I bought a hydraulic crimper , pretty much all the wiring I can see in his pics is questionable at best , maybe I might try to diagnose a ski with wiring like that but I would never try to actually run it in the water like that , you are just asking for it .

To the guy that thought that was a good ground location , don't quit your day job , you won't make it repairing Jet skis for a living.

 

[Roseand]

There is lots of good advice in this thread.

I think you should find out what the issue is, or more likely issues are, “before throwing the baby out with the bathwater” and switching to a 760 setup. Many guys are running a 62t setup sucessfully. It is easy to swap an oem 62t flywheel to see if that is the issue. Leave it in there while you test for other things.

As others have said above, secure and stable power and ground cables and connections are needed for any electrical system to function and be reliable. Your pics show many wiring issues which are common, we see them all the time in skis.

View attachment 458901
All cables need to be marine grade, which means no raw copper wire. Copper is highly conductive, but also highly corrosive. Marine grade wire is tinned to slow down this corrosion.

The crimps in most or all of these pics are upside down. They look weak and possibly intermitently tight if at all.
Most crimp on terminals are made from flat metal which is rolled, and the joint is on top. There are different types of crimpers for insulated and for uninsulated terminals, either can make a good crimp.

When you crimp a terminal, make sure the rounded part of your crimp tool matches up with the line where the 2 ends of the metal meet. Then when you crimp they stay tight together and the tool’s crimp pin pushes in from the bottom against solid metal. You get a nice tight crimp this way.

View attachment 458902

More upside down weak crimps on wires. Extra wire splices, non waterproof butt splices and terminals all over the place. Your system is as reliable as the weakest connection.

New power, starter, and ground cables, new ebox gasket, new fuse holder assembly should be installed before you do anymore testing.

Sticky this.
We are spoiled to have you help the sport!

 

[JetManiac]

,

Those type of crimps pictured on the cables suck period , I crimp connections all the time, for terminals I have the correct crimping tool, for cables I bought a hydraulic crimper , pretty much all the wiring I can see in his pics is questionable at best , maybe I might try to diagnose a ski with wiring like that but I would never try to actually run it in the water like that , you are just asking for it .

Agree. For battery terminals, a large crimp tool or hydraulic tool is best for sure. For small terminals, a standard hand crimper is fine.

 

[beerdart]

Crimp it.

 

[beerdart]

Big boy set lol

 

[JC-SuperJet]

For those who think that a bad Battery Ground location will not damage electrical components or cause erratic performance, go ahead, do the experiment. Bolt your Negative Battery cable to your Flywheel Cover and expose your high dollar components to this abuse. Prove it on your own Ski. Are you 100% sure the Battery Ground location is not critical?

FAFO

 

[Ryan Declark]

Big boy set lol

sick set. literally just looking getting something like that. and i guess since where all hear talking about how we would do things better, my question to everyone is why i dont see alot more deutsch plug connectors on jet skis. i want my wiring to be easy to connect and disconnect thats "water tight". in the Marine industry all i see is deutsch plugs.

 

[WFO Speedracer]

sick set. literally just looking getting something like that. and i guess since where all hear talking about how we would do things better, my question to everyone is why i dont see alot more deutsch plug connectors on jet skis. i want my wiring to be easy to connect and disconnect thats "water tight". in the Marine industry all i see is deutsch plugs.

I am used to working on Seadoos with Weatherpak connectors but yeah same deal

 

[Ryan Declark]

i mean if i can set my freestyle boat up with something like this, id be a happy camper.

 

[joeschuit]

What blew my mind recently is learning that aluminum anodizing is NON-conductive.

 

[WFO Speedracer]

What blew my mind recently is learning that aluminum anodizing is NON-conductive.

That's the wholeo point of the process and how you know the aluminum part has become an anode , you check it with an OHM meter.

 

[DylanS]

sick set. literally just looking getting something like that. and i guess since where all hear talking about how we would do things better, my question to everyone is why i dont see alot more deutsch plug connectors on jet skis. i want my wiring to be easy to connect and disconnect thats "water tight". in the Marine industry all i see is deutsch plugs.

Bought a big 100 dollar set off eBay of them and that’s all I use for the total loss setups. Super easy to troubleshoot. Those and those little oem style bullet connectors JM sells!!

 

[JC-SuperJet]

What blew my mind recently is learning that aluminum anodizing is NON-conductive.

Yes, anodizing creates a non-conductive aluminum oxide layer on aluminum that serves as an electrical insulator.

No Bueno for Ground Cable...

 

[Freakie]

Yes, anodizing creates a non-conductive aluminum oxide layer on aluminum that serves as an electrical insulator.

No Bueno for Ground Cable...

Incredible to learn this at my age....Thanks guys !!!...Electrical Engineer and building skis for 30 years and I can now hopefully use this knowledge productively with my carbon skis and the galvanic corrosion that it eating everything alumium that I cant replace with stainless steel.....e.g. rear nozzle, pump shoe, ride plate, ebox, midshaft....the nozzle and the pump shoe are destroyed at the mounting points..other parts are badly pitted but still useable.

 

[WFO Speedracer]

Incredible to learn this at my age....Thanks guys !!!...Electrical Engineer and building skis for 30 years and I can now hopefully use this knowledge productively with my carbon skis and the galvanic corrosion that it eating everything alumium that I cant replace with stainless steel.....e.g. rear nozzle, pump shoe, ride plate, ebox, midshaft....the nozzle and the pump shoe are destroyed at the mounting points..other parts are badly pitted but still useable.

It's a fairly simple process you can do at home with a five gallon bucket, battery acid, a piece of coathanger wire , some aluminum foil and a battery charger , I have done quite a few items here and there.

 

[JC-SuperJet]

Incredible to learn this at my age....Thanks guys !!!...Electrical Engineer and building skis for 30 years and I can now hopefully use this knowledge productively with my carbon skis and the galvanic corrosion that it eating everything alumium that I cant replace with stainless steel.....e.g. rear nozzle, pump shoe, ride plate, ebox, midshaft....the nozzle and the pump shoe are destroyed at the mounting points..other parts are badly pitted but still useable.

You can also attach sacrificial Zinc Anodes onto some Aluminum Parts like the Ride Plate, similar to how Yamaha puts a Zinc Anode inside the Cylinder Block.

Galvanzing Spray Paint can help also:

 

[Knickell]

I got new marine grade cables ordered along with water proof marine grade connectors and a OEM fuse holder. I’m gonna replace all positive and negative main cables, connectors, fuse holder and relocate the ground. I’m going to start the ski and check voltage. What should voltage be at the battery while running? 13- 14 amps? Is there anything else I can check while running to verify over charging or too much voltage?

 

[WFO Speedracer]

You can't check amps without a special meter or a shunt for a meter, you are checking DC voltage , it should be less than 14.5 volts at 5000 or so RPM.

If it's over 14.5 the voltage regulator is bad . You also need to do the AC voltage test on the source coil on the stator, that test is with it unplugged and at cranking RPM so it has to be done with the electrical box still open.

 

[Half flip95]

if you look in the manual, chapter 7. It shows the three different circuits of the Yamaha Superjet broken out into three different diagrams. You’ll notice that the battery cable is part of two of the circuits - the starting circuit and the charging circuit. It is not part of your ignition circuit. Your ignition is an AC circuit and the negative lead of you battery is not part of it. The cdi and various coils are referenced to the engine block itself. Yes if those connections are poor you could have operational issues. Yes the battery uses the engine block as its “ground” reference also, but it is a separate circuit and a high resistance connection at this location would not cause a loss of spark on an oem ignition system.