Chris' Surf Battle Boat... Never done!

[oxnard111]

so a couple weeks ago the stop circuit in my s/s switch went bad... so for the last two weeks I have been using the s/s switch from my square nose.

I sent out my original start/stop switch to JSS to be re manufactured. I also sent in the harness that stays in the electrical box. Both sides were rewired with bullet style connectors instead of the stock Yamaha clip style. Excellent quality of work as always from JSS.

The only thing I had to modify was the eye hole connector that JSS put on the start stop switch. On a stock switch the brown wire goes to the starter solenoid, with a bullet connector inside the box to remove the wiring harness easily. John gets gets rid of the bullet connect. The eye hole connector he replaces it with was too large and was slipping down the post it was intended to be put on. So I put on connector that more the size I needed.

 

[oxnard111]

So its about that time. Think I'm gonna tear her apart to do a rebuild. Here are my plans for the next month or so.

-Install new OEM steering cable I just ordered this morning from Parker Yamaha for $82.00 shipped. (Thanks Matt_E for telling me where the cheapest one was)

-Re-enforce the whole inside with one layer of 1708, foam in and glass over the voids underneath the nose area, probably do two layers of 1708 in the nose area. I also am thinking about filling in the lip under the hood seal area b/c I need to rebuild the edge where the hood seal sits. Its all cracked. The previous owner had shaved it down too far.

-Install tubbie I's that I have in my garage

-Send out flywheel to get lightened

-Sending out my ebox to JSS. Gonna have it completely done so it will be bullet proof. quick disconnect stator, start/stop, battery terminals, etc. Getting all new battery and starter cables.

-Thinking of ceramic coating my MOD chamber

-Send out prop to get cleaned up... maybe, looks like it needs it, but it just gonna keep getting jacked up, so maybe not.

-Also another possibility if I feel up to it is I want to remove the 1 inch tube that sticks out the back right hand side of the ski, and install two 1 inch tubes with duck bills straight from around the mid shaft housing to dump into the pump area.

-Re enforce tray and install stainless inserts for the foot straps.

-Re turf with black marble waffle cut turf with 25mm underpadding.

-Straighten my handle bars back out, or find a thicker tube than x-metal provides.


Gonna need some advice on building back up the lip area around the hood seal. I'll take pictures soon.

 

[oxnard111]

Okay so I took a couple pics of the hood seal lip. You see how thin it is in comparison to stock SJ? Only millimeters away from the hood seal compared to a couple centimeters.

I think I can remove the stock hood seal in tact so I can re use it. Its in good shape.

Just trying to get some idea on how to fix this. I'd like to build up the thickness between the lip and hood seal, but how would I do it?

here is a pic of the back corner that some people grind out to fit in a dry pipe



and some of other shots

 

[Sospikey]

Okay so I took a couple pics of the hood seal lip. You see how thin it is in comparison to stock SJ? Only millimeters away from the hood seal compared to a couple centimeters.

I think I can remove the stock hood seal in tact so I can re use it. Its in good shape.

Just trying to get some idea on how to fix this. I'd like to build up the thickness between the lip and hood seal, but how would I do it?

here is a pic of the back corner that some people grind out to fit in a dry pipe



and some of other shots

Why would anyone grind off material there? On the left hand side, to clear a dry pipe I understand; but there???

 

[oxnard111]

Pretty much all stripped. Geoff's ski is stripped in my garage also.

Just gotta get get my butt in gear now.

 

[oxnard111]

got a good start on saturday and sunday morning. ground down all the ribs, removed as much green glue and I am going to, sanded the whole inside, and poured foam in the upper cavities. Here are a whole bunch of random shots thus far.

Strongly considering painting it while its all apart. I'll probably never ever get around to doing it other wise. I think I'll strip all the mating except for the bottom mat for painting. then once its all back together I'll ride it once or twice to make sure I like my foot strap position with the tubbies, rip the remaining turf off and re turf.

Thinking about using a one stage acrylic urethane paint. Thinking about this stuff. Metallic Blank. Is Acrylic Urethane the right stuff to use?

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Blac...emQQcategoryZ63702QQihZ011QQitemZ320174790841

 

[oxnard111]

Just got done shaving the foam, applying filler, and laid one layer of 1708 and one layer of 4.8oz carbon on the handlepole bracket area. Then near the end when I got up to mix up a little bit more resin, bam!!!!!!!!!!! I threw my back out again. Looks like I'll be down for a week or two.

 

[oxnard111]

Here are some pics of what I got done last night before I threw my back out. I wanted to cover a more area, but had to stop. Oh well, it'll be just be more sanding so I can over lap areas.

One layer of 1708 w/ mat on back, then one layer of 5 oz carbon.

 

[oxnard111]

So on the hood seal lip area I removed the cracked sections and prepped the area to be rebuilt. With the ski upside down I used duct tape to form the area that needed to be filled in.

I mixed epoxy resin, filler, and some fiberglass mat I chopped up with some scissors and filled in the area.



I forgot to snap pictures after filler dried and before I laid fiber glass over the whole hood seal area, but that filler came out so tough. It was very very strong to my surprise. That rebuilt area had no more flexibility than the whole rest of the lip area.

I then took some filler and filled in the lip area and layed some 3 inch strips of knytex down and drapping over the lip. I should have used some thinner stuff but the 1708 was all I had, so I just tackled the job anyways. I will come back and grind the lip flush. Then probably do one more layer of body body filler to smooth it all out.

This is my first major glass repair and re enforcing job. There are things I would have done different, but it seems to be coming out pretty good any ways.

 

[oxnard111]

Received all my electrical back from JSS. All of it looks killer. Here are some pics

 

[oxnard111]

I ground down and sanded the hood seal lip area that I re-enforced. I need to sand a tiny bit more, then I'm gonna spread some body filler on it to smooth it out, then paint just the inner lip area white. The whole hood seal is so strong. No flex at all compared to my buddies SJ without re enforcement.

 

[oxnard111]

Installed my tubbies. Didn't come out as planned but oh well. There is always next time. The first side installed got mounted a little low. Second side came out perfect in my opinion (less :439: I think had something to do with that). But the two are not symmetrical. As you can see in the first picture below the left side hugs the bottom of the whole a lot longer than the right side. The right side breaks free from the bottom of the hull a lot earlier. I am gonna try to fill it in a little more so it blends like the low side.

The bostik stuff does not want to sand. So I found it was easier to take a combination between a razor blade, pocket knife and flat head screw driver to cut/shave away as much adhesive as possible before you start sanding. Also wet sanding helps a little more than dry.

 

[oxnard111]

Also used some of the extra bostik sealant to seal up all the through hull tubes

 

[oxnard111]

Got my flywheel back from JSS. Lightened and painted.

Got my chamber back from getting ceramic coated. This color is called stainless steel. Cost $70. I've included a before pic to compare.

 

[cambo au]

how good dose ceramic coating make your ski look i did my old chamber and ex manifold glassing looks pretty good
why you running a 61x stator?
you rolling that sucker yet?

 

[oxnard111]

how good dose ceramic coating make your ski look i did my old chamber and ex manifold glassing looks pretty good
why you running a 61x stator?
you rolling that sucker yet?

I don't think it will do much good. Just looks cool. My chamber looked so bad and just wanted it look better.

I'm just running the 61x setup b/c that is what came with the ski when I purchased it. I really had thought it was a 62T setup, but when I pulled the flywheel the first time a couple weeks ago i found out it was 61x.

I have been told a 61x lightened flywheel is still lighter than a 62t lightened flywheel.

Not rolling anything yet. I am out of town and can't work on my ski for a couple weeks. I hope I'll have it back together by the middle/end of January.

 

[Crab]

Installed my tubbies. Didn't come out as planned but oh well. There is always next time. The first side installed got mounted a little low. Second side came out perfect in my opinion (less :439: I think had something to do with that). But the two are not symmetrical. As you can see in the first picture below the left side hugs the bottom of the whole a lot longer than the right side. The right side breaks free from the bottom of the hull a lot earlier. I am gonna try to fill it in a little more so it blends like the low side.

The bostik stuff does not want to sand. So I found it was easier to take a combination between a razor blade, pocket knife and flat head screw driver to cut/shave away as much adhesive as possible before you start sanding. Also wet sanding helps a little more than dry.

I don't think thats all your fault, I noticed when installing some used ones a week ago that using the install dimensions they didn't look right either. So at the last minute I redrilled a few holes and moved it around so they were better coming off the bottom. I also mounted them up about 1/4 inch so they act more like the 2's. The foam in mine was junk, so I refoamed with 4lb. and epoxied them to the hull with thickened mix of cabosil and epoxy. I still have some final shaping and smoothing to do, but pleased overall with the results.

 

[oxnard111]

I don't think thats all your fault, I noticed when installing some used ones a week ago that using the install dimensions they didn't look right either. So at the last minute I redrilled a few holes and moved it around so they were better coming off the bottom. I also mounted them up about 1/4 inch so they act more like the 2's. The foam in mine was junk, so I refoamed with 4lb. and epoxied them to the hull with thickened mix of cabosil and epoxy. I still have some final shaping and smoothing to do, but pleased overall with the results.

wow, how much epoxy did that take?

When I finally turned the ski back to its upright position it doesn't look too bad. It is just surf ski and this is my first major build on a superjet. So maybe in a couple years when I build another SJ, there are things that I would differently.

 

[wydopen]

. So at the last minute I redrilled a few holes and moved it around so they were better coming off the bottom. I also mounted them up about 1/4 inch so they act more like the 2's.

we were going for the opposite on his...the lower the better...i dont condone tubbie II use..:wink:

 

[brett]

Installed my tubbies. Didn't come out as planned but oh well. There is always next time. The first side installed got mounted a little low. Second side came out perfect in my opinion (less :439: I think had something to do with that). But the two are not symmetrical. As you can see in the first picture below the left side hugs the bottom of the whole a lot longer than the right side. The right side breaks free from the bottom of the hull a lot earlier. I am gonna try to fill it in a little more so it blends like the low side.

The bostik stuff does not want to sand. So I found it was easier to take a combination between a razor blade, pocket knife and flat head screw driver to cut/shave away as much adhesive as possible before you start sanding. Also wet sanding helps a little more than dry.

mine arnt symmetrical either. even after its completely dry, the bostik doesnt sand. i gave up