Super Jet Basic SN build !Completed! *Tuning time*

[hesty32]

I first rode them cut straight off the 2x4 but could not slide the rear of the ski! Made a huge difference. So I cut the back 8 inches or so off (if you look close in the pics you can see the curve at the back). Then turfed them. Haven't had a chance to ride this version yet. Maybe tomorrow. Side note, a guy I have ridden with a few times has a similar set up but his rails are further forward, they about line up with the hood both front and back. He is a much better rider than me so he wants more slide. His are about the same width (3.5) but have less vertical part and the front and back 8 in or so are just a straight edge. I was worried about that edge (I'm a noob and spend a lot of time falling OFF the ski!) so I wanted the vertical part as much as I could get it. The front edge may slow me down a little but usually they are out of the water. Anyway, what I'm working on so far. I was really surprised at how much more stable it makes the ski and how it makes you float through the white wash! Curious though how long they will put up with poor form landings (landing too flat). I'll let you all know. Planning to abuse them in Daytona in two weeks!

 

[iangdesign]

View attachment 238563 View attachment 238564
Here is a pic of my extended rails. My template is the 2x4 on the stool. Cut an angle on one end then radiused the corner. Wrapped it in foil then laid a layer of Kevlar, 4 layers of glass and another layer of Kevlar. Then cut/trimmed the glass back to the edge of the 2x4 so the rail is 48" long, 3.5 wide, 1.5 tall. Didn't remove the stock plastic rail guards because they help it sit level. I didn't bother making the template with the ridge to fit the stock bare rails. This one was an experiment and I probably will make A better one later. You will notice they are straight, again didn't bother making a curved template. Problem is they can't go forward any further then they are. They are bolted on with 6 6 mm bolts, fender washers on top (under the turf) and large washers underneath with nylock nuts. Before I bolted them down I laid a thick bead of 3m 5200 down the rail and a big gob at the leading edge where the taper meets the side of the rail.

So what is the ride report with these attached? Your SN is full length still...does it make that much of a difference when riding? I know most extend the flange after they have chopped the ski quite a bit for added stability.

Very interesting concept and they came out good. When my buddy mentioned them to me I thought it would be a chunky piece of glass hanging off the side...but you did a great job on them. Kudos good sir!

 

[lamar311]

Pretty slick little mod. I was planning on doing this to my ski but we'll see how the nose shaping goes. I was planning on cutting the rail where it dropped down in the the water and glass onto the top of the existing than doing some bondo/fill work to smooth it all out. Does it really make that ski much more stable?

 

[Quinc]

Pretty slick little mod. I was planning on doing this to my ski but we'll see how the nose shaping goes. I was planning on cutting the rail where it dropped down in the the water and glass onto the top of the existing than doing some bondo/fill work to smooth it all out. Does it really make that ski much more stable?

You are building a Freestyle ski, do you want it more stable? =P

 

[hesty32]

Let me start off by reminding everyone I'm a bit of a noob and my experience is only a stock hull SN and a stock hull Kwai 750sx. yes it does make the ski more stable, amazingly so. I wish I would have done this first thing. But only two rides on the lake with them so far so opinion may change. Sounds counter intuitive on a freestyle / freeride hull but really helps the landing and ride out from a jump or trick and that's where I really suck. An advantage to the bolt on is you can move them to some degree if you make your bolt holes exactly the same distance apart. Limiting factor is the curve towards the nose.

My first version was all the way to the bump on the rail right in front of the serial number and they were 48 inches long. That was way too much. I couldn't slash or slide the tail. The pics are of the next revision where I cut out about 8 inches and curved the rear a little. So far I like that. I can still slide the tail a bit when I want a good slash.

Tanner has his quite a bit more forward and his are shorter. He is way better skier and has a shortened round nose (about minus 3 on the stern and bobbed nose if I remember right). See video here http://www.x-h2o.com/index.php?threads/fun-florida-surf-with-tanner-and-stan.137120/
He went through several versions and placements too. His are between 30 and 36 inches I think and are kind of "amidship". They start maybe a 10 inches from the front of the hood. He says that let's him get the stability yet he can still slash and slide. Right now I'm kinda going off what he and Stan say and then adjusting

I plan on making another set and molding for the curve of the hull and the profile of the naked rail so I can take off the plastic rail guards but that won't happen for a couple months. Beauty of what I got is it was really easy to make. Maybe 5 min to make the 2x4 mold then start laying glass. Ski was still rideable until mounting and that was fairly easy too. Then just letting the 5200 cure and turf. If you don't do some kind of sealant under them, you will get these funny "fountains" shooting up the side of your ski.

Did I answer any questions with that long diatribe?

 

[lamar311]

You are building a Freestyle ski, do you want it more stable? =P

Well, my idea was to make them only about 12-14 inches long on the very back of the tray and mold them directly to the current rail and make them slope down on a 45 degree angle. It would really only be for low speed stability while I was riding in and out of tricks or approaching a set up wake.. So to answer your question...yes I do want it more stable but only when the *ssend of the ski is submerged. Freestyle and shortened ski's tend to be very difficult to board as well...which is why I left the lip on mine like a Rickter, so this is just one more piece to make the ski easier to ride. I know I will hate the hull the first day or two...but I intend on building this correctly the first time so I can just ride it and fix what breaks.

 

[lamar311]

Hows it coming along Quinc?

 

[Quinc]

I have all the HD foam in the tray nice and tight about 1/8-1/2" below the bond line. I am still thinking and looking around on how i want to do the tray. I have some 2 part foam I was thinking about filling the last 1" or so with and then sanding it either flat and level all the way across or maybe putting some angle to the tray. I am not sure. It looks like stock it was high in the back and low in the front. Also measuring from the top of the pump tunnel it looks like I need the foam to be above the bond the line.

And sent my cylinders off to CPT (Nuklear) here on the forum to have ported.

 

[lamar311]

I did the opposite as I wanted my foot holds low. So my holds actually sit on the bond line and the rest of the tray is lower than the pump cavity is. The lower the holds are the more stable your ski will be (I am getting this fact from a local guy that fabricates Epic hulls). So I literally moved the whole tray down by 1 inch or so. If you look at my tray you'll see that the pump actually sticks up about an inch in the back middle of the tray. It seems like most guys are headed that direction as I looked at a ton of other square builds. You could add the pour foam over the HD stuff if you wanted the tray level with the pump cavity. I was considering that as well until I decided to drop the holds. It also made sense for me as I could drop the holds and they would fit to the top of the gun whales without modification.

YOU WILL LOVE THE PORTED CYLINDERS. I have a buddy that has a 701 ported with a Riva pipe and it pulls almost as hard as my 760 bored to a 787 does with a b pipe. Its a slick mod man..

So here is an interesting piece of info. The guy who is painting and finishing the prep/sanding on my boat has an EME Q8. Totally killer ski with a ported 750 in it ...the thing rips and can do all sorts of Flatwater freestyle. I am pretty sure with a big enough wake and enough B*lls one of us could backflip it. He took my hull away for paint last night and mine is only 1 inch longer and that is with the lip on the back. I am not sure how the weight comparison will be but that is exciting to me as this is a homemade freestyle boat. Q8's are very expensive and a pain to work on with the engine compartment being so small. I'll be really stoked to try them side by side though I think his motor has a little more than mine. Here is a before and after with the lowered hood.

 

[Quinc]

You are making some killer progress! Good idea about lowering the footholds. I am going to take a look at it after work and see what I can do. Also thinking that I will place the back of the foothold with where I chopped the rear.

 

[lamar311]

You are making some killer progress! Good idea about lowering the footholds. I am going to take a look at it after work and see what I can do. Also thinking that I will place the back of the foothold with where I chopped the rear.

I can't really take credit for the lowered holds...that was Epic's idea and his hulls are super stable I have heard. As far as the position of the holds, yes..make sure you move them up at least to where you chopped the hull or your ski will ride super nose high. I moved mine 6 inches forward so the very back of the hold is 1 inch in front of the chop. If you think about it, holds on an old square end up about 1 inch from the rear of the strake. If you want the ski to handle in a similar balanced fashion to stock than that is where your weight needs to be. I also moved my pole 6 or more inches forward which feels really odd but like all freestyle ski's are set up as well. Your chest needs to be over your engine to equalize the weight and allow for rotation during tricks.

The way my ski was set up before really didn't allow me to get my weight comfortably over the nose. I have to admit I am scared to ride this thing as I know I will hate it in the begining. I stood up in the tray a few weeks ago with a buddy holding the pole in place and it just felt really strange with both feet in the holds. Standing surf (which is how I ride 90% of the time) felt good as the tray is way wider now but I am going to have to get stronger as I will be riding with bent knees constantly to manage the ski.

The hull is out of my hands and now in the body shop guy here that paints professionally. Interested to see what he comes back with as I have given him full creative reign over what he does. I am guessing he'll do a simple paint /color scheme due to my deadline of January 25th and he does this in his spare time. I plan to start a thread over at PWCtoday as there really isn't many on these types of skiis/body conversions.

 

[Quinc]

I poured two part foam in the tray to fill in all of the gaps and give me something to sand down into for the foot holds. Any tips on making the tray level and getting an even depth into the tray for the footholds?

 

[lamar311]

I used the bond line as my gauge. That was a bit of a challenge for me but once I decided to drop the whole tray down by and inch or two it was much easier to just make the pump area protrude and use the bond line as my gauge.

Lower the tray and holds the more stable your boat will be.

BTW..Here is a link to my build. I decided to put it on PWCtoday since I couldn't really find anything for reference when using that site previously.

http://www.pwctoday.com/showthread.php?t=417485&page=4&p=3990604&posted=1#post3990604

 

[Quinc]

Was hoping to finish sanding tonight but mom and the baby had other plans. Going to cut a 2x4 to match the width of the hull and sand it down as evenly as possibly.

Edit: Should mention that there is 3/4"-1.5" of two part foam on top of the HD foam:

 

[lamar311]

Looking good man. Trust me I get the distraction thing. I have been dealing with Grandparents distraction since last July.

What kind of hold are you using? I don't think you need to worry as much as you think about the levelness of the tray base. If you are using 16oz biax it holds its form pretty well. Obviously you don't want huge lows and highs in the ski but the cloth (if heavy enough) will lay and harden pretty flat. However, I haven't stood in my tray after turfing so I really can't say how mine turned out. It does however look pretty level and should work great.

We shot the hull with Primer last night. I have to admit I was beyond stoked.

 

[Quinc]

These are the Toby holds for 65$. Met a fellow X member at the lake that had some and I liked them. Plus the price is right.

What color scheme are you going with on yours?

 

[lamar311]

Cool man...yes the price is right for sure and if you have tried and liked them our good.

I am not really sure as I left that in my buddies hands. I think we are just doing one color metallic blue color from House of colors. Super cool looking very sparkly. I would have just sprayed it on the cheap but he has a lot of the materials and is helping me on the cost because the paint is going bad. He used to work in a body shop as a painter so I a very fortunate to have him around.

 

[Quinc]

Very Cool! I also have a good friend with painting experience that is helping me out. Right now I am leaning toward ford grabber blue.

 

[hesty32]

Both of your builds are coming out sweet! I'll be very interested to hear the ride reports! I've got an old SN hull I've been thinking about following what you are both doing. Hopefully you are a head of this but a problem I ran into with my running ski is my footholds are too far back. I've worn off the turf and my ankles get sore riding because I always try to scoot forward in the holds and end up with the ridge against my ankle. I also wish I would have put thicker (25 mm) padding under the turf on the floor and the inside top of the holds to tighten them up and give me a little more padding on landings. In any case, following both your builds with interest and they are looking sweet so far! Nice job to you both!

 

[iangdesign]

Lots of SN builds this winter it's cool to see peeps love the hulls so much and want to improve them!