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Looks like hammer marks where the crankshaft was trued to me, this means whoever rebuilt it did not have a nice jig to build the crank in and tried to eyeball it, that didn't work out to well so then they tried to true it up with a hammer resulting in what you see here lol.

Many thanks to Crammit for the driveshaft that made this conversion possible. I shot a few pics of various stuff, the oversize bilge system, new cooling line, glassed inserts for the pump, the resonator and some other exhaust stuff. I am redrilling the plates I used to mount the 550 in with and...

Why you needing a membership increase here? :poke:

There are plenty of off topic threads there for that, you do have a valid point there, but the truth is some things just will not sell here and they will sell over there, some things will not sell either place but they will sell on Ebay.All I can say is if you hate the site then don't go there...

I will be honest Chiselmore , it takes about twenty seconds to copy the text from here and put up an ad over there, a few seconds more to post the pics, honestly I hate it when people post links to another site, like they are too lazy to make the effort to sell the parts, it makes me wonder what...

And the banned plays on.......................

I have that chart in the WSM book,it only gives you total lengths on the Kawi shafts.

I need some more info on Kawi driveshafts, I have a 650sx shaft which is 23 5/8 in. length, the 750sx shaft is 24 7/16 in. length. The 750 shaft is very close to what I need in length but what I need to know is the distance from the rear end of 750SX shaft to the start of the seal surface...

I am just going to camp in Justin's back yard , i hear he has a nice private fenced in area that should be perfect lol

Did a beaver chew the cable hole in that bracket? Seriously hole saws are fairly cheap.

I believe you are using the term bedplate wrong , thats where the misunderstanding here is , the term bedplate usually refers to the parts that bolt to the engine and span to the engine mounts, not the aluminum pieces you are gluing to the hull.

You need about a 30 ton hydraulic press and a press plate, the plate has a cutout that goes around the rod big end, then you have to shim up hollowed out part inside the crankshaft web to keep it straight while you press it apart, I usually used old rod pins to press the pins out of the crank...

Not trying to be negative but here is the skinny, the cranks are of course trued as they have to be trued to within a certain spec to run smoothly, the welding is a little different, it does positively lock in the true of the crankshaft but on reman cranks it is done more to cure sloppy press...

Not really sure what you are referring to here but you only shim under the mounts or between the mounts and the bedplate.

That is exactly what I did on the pump tunnel pads on the 300SX pump install, I used washers between the pump and the mounts,then when you glass over the pads and do your final fairing you make up the difference of the washers.As for the glue taking up space this is correct,when using any epoxy...

I am going to try to make it also ,depends on how fast thing pick up here really, as it is they are damn slow.

On my last couple of builds I have robbed the bilge systems out of Kawi sit downs and installed them in place of the stock bilge,the line that goes through the ski is 5/8 or so and the hose and pickup are very large diameter , the hose in the back of the ski necks down at the back to hook up to...

Yes it is very true ,google it !

20% is the amount one part has to differ from another to avoid patent issues.I thought everyone knew this.

Do you know for a fact that his part isn't 20% longer , shorter, wider,narrower,thicker or deeper than the Jap part? In this instance since he has no competition on that exact style part being sold elsewhere in the USA, I don't see a problem with it, the only other way to get that specific part...