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No I just turf right over the hull and it fills in perfect with where the rails went and I took black silicone sealer to fill in the gap for a smooth finish between the turf and hull.

I have done two but I don't have pic's I will try to get you some, it's pretty easy and you cut off a lot of weight just make sure you epoxy all of the holes in and grind down all of the sharp edges and corner's too on the front to make it easier to lay down the turf and make sure you rough up...

I am running the ballistic battery and has work perfect! http://www.ballisticparts.com/products/batteries/12cell.php

Money sent time for the Missouri gang to step up for a good cause!

We would love to put something on that the whole family and beginners could all come too and still have our wavemakers ready for aerial attacks!! But last year our lake was 20' over lake stage and just about all of our campgrounds were under water, we keep talking about trying to get everybody...

I did it myself, I used aircraft stripper to get all of the powder coating off and then I used a scotchbrite (red) wheel to smooth out the aluminum on the head pipe and then used a polishing wheel and compound to get it to shine. The chamber is real easy to polish once you get the powder coat...

Check the gaskets from the exhaust manifold to the cyl. , I have had them leak once and it would let water back in through the exhaust port.

It doesn't grease the bearings the only grease you need is to put on the oring to seal the cone from water getting in.

Ported cyl.(art jetworks), compression (Any a/m head), ignition (Advent), carbs( Modify Blackjack your carbs or go for some 44mm) and put it on a diet You will have a whole new ski.

Here is a another Pic

Yes you will tell a difference with less drag and a looser feeling.

Did you take your motor mount plate off, if you put it on backwards you will have the 1/2 freeplay because it is offset.

I have 157.5 main with 80 low speed jets with 25 pop off pressure on my wifes ski and it has the same things that you have. I bet you have a needle valve leaking through is why it is running rich, pull the filters off and see if fuel is trickling in at fast idle to quarter throttle.

Has anybody else had the front seal pushed out by the crank bearing with a Hotrods crank. I have put it together twice and after 2 weekends of riding it pushes out the seal and the cases are not worn or damaged the only thing I have found was the crank bearing going on the shaft I could force...

sounds like a dead cell in the battery, try another battery first.

Yes it is 1 3/4" longer, you have to be careful on the machined area lining up with your bearing support. You would probable be ahead just buying a longnose impeller, that's what I did.

If you have a needle valve leaking it will trickle out the bomb site when its running at idle or up to a 1/4 throttle, I have had pop off pressure hold when checked but when the motor is running the vibration shaking the carb will make it leak. Now if it sprays gas back out of the throat of the...

Try a 125 jet and a pop off pressure of 20 with the low speed needle out 1 1/2 turns and then go out with the screw once you are out past 2 turns then go up to the next jet size if it seems better, If that does not help take the breather off and start it up on a stand in the water and see if...

Adding the pump ring did not load my pump any harder it just kept it hook up better, Are you sure that this is not a lean bog dead spot instead of a rich blubber when you hit the throttle? You could be just going in the wrong direction, if you are positive it's not lean the next thing might be...

If you are still running your fuel switch bypass it they are know to clog up, just run a line from the gas tank straight to the carbs. Also when it starts acting up gap the spark plugs up to .015 and see if it will run, if it does then check the readings on your stator when its hot they can read...